• All lodging within dates of the trip (hotel in Kathmandu, lodges with beds on approach, tents at base camp and during the climb)
• All in-country transport, including domestic flights and airport transfers
• All meals outside of Kathmandu during the trek and climb (three meals prepared by a cook each day)
• All peak permit fees, park entry charges, and logistics support
• 15kg of cargo transfer from Kathmandu to Lukla and vice-versa
• Porter support on the approach to Base Camp
• Guide support above Base Camp
• All fixed lines, pitons, ice screws, and other rigging material
• Fully stocked base camp with dining tent, cook, and sleeping tents
• Insurance for all Nepali staff and guides
• Government liaison officer (when applicable)
• Expedition garbage deposit

• International airfare
• Lodging and other expenses outside of trip dates (if you arrive early, or leave late).  We recommend that you arrive at least two days before your scheduled trip and depart at least two days after in order to account for possible travel delays.
• Optional snacks between meals (Budget $6 USD/day if buying snacks from lodges along the trek)
• Excess baggage fees, if you have them (100 Nepali Rupees/$1.25 for every kilo over 15 kg)
• Meals in Kathmandu (budget $20/day in Kathmandu)
• Optional alcohol and other bottled beverages if you buy them.  Boiled water and tea included in cost.
• Optional gas heated showers on the trek
• Optional internet charges
• Optional battery charging on the trek (available for an extra charge through lodges where we stay)
• Travel, trip cancelation, and evacuation insurance
• Personal clothing and equipment rental or purchase if needed
• Nepal Visa On Arrival fee ($40 for 30 days, $100 for 90 days)
• Tips for guides and staff (budget $10 USD/day.  For a 20 day trip this is $200 USD).  This should be converted to Nepali Rupees (NPR).
• Any expenses resulting from severe weather, travel delays or cancellations, injury, illness, political instability, natural disaster, or other circumstances outside the control of Nepal Alpine Guides.

PAYMENT POLICY

• Deposits are due 180 days before your trip start date to hold your place on the trip.  If your deposit is not received your place is not guarenteed.
• The balance is due 90 days before your trip start date.  
• If you are registering 90 or less days before a trip start date, full payment is due at the time of registration.  
• Each payment includes a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee.
• Payments can be made by check, money order, wire transfer, credit card, or PayPal transfer. 

 

CANCELLATION & REFUND POLICY

• There is a $200.00 non-refundable registration fee.
• Full refunds will be issued 120 days or more prior to the trip start date.
• 50% refunds will be issued 90-119 days before the trip start date.
• No refunds will be issued 89 days or less prior to the trip start date.  This includes for medical emergencies, natural disasters, political unrest, and other circumstances outside the control of Nepal Alpine Guides.
• If Nepal Alpine Guides cancels or reschedules a program, the registration fee and all payments are refundable in full.  

Itinerary Details:

 

Flexibility

 

In order to provide the best customer service, itineraries may be changed or amended to suite the desires of participants.  These changes can be made if all group members agree to them, and if it does not negatively affect your staffs’ commitments to family or work.  If you decide you would like to customize your trip, there may be additional costs for added days or new areas visited.  Trips may also be changed by your guide in the event your planned itinerary is unsafe or is no longer possible due to circumstances.  Please remain flexible, and we will do our best to ensure your trip is all you hoped it would be.

 

Generally, we do not recommend making changes that result in shortening an itinerary since this can result in losing extra summit days, and thus reduce your chances of summiting.  Shortening may also result in losing spare weather days for cancelled flights, which could result in you missing your international flight home.  Lastly, it may require ascending faster, which can increase your chances of altitude illness.  It is possible to add side-trips, extensions, or reverse the direction of some itineraries.  Please enquire if you wish to do so.

 

Delays

 

If you are delayed in departing on your trek or climb due to reasons beyond the control of Nepal Alpine Guides, such as delayed or cancelled internal flights due to bad weather, your group can use spare weather days that are built into your itinerary.  During these days the cost of your lodging in Kathmandu or Pokhara is covered.  If these days occur while you are trekking, then the cost of both your lodging and meals are covered.  If the delay extends beyond the number of built-in weather days in your itinerary, you are responsible for your expenses during these extra waiting days.  If the period of waiting is so long that it affects your ability to complete the original itinerary, Nepal Alpine Guides will provide an alternative trip for the remaining days, or you may complete part of your original itinerary.  If you decide not to participate in the alternative trip, Higher Path Treks is unable to provide a refund.  

 

If you do not use your spare weather days during the trip, you are entitled to a 2800 NPR reimbursement for each unused spare weather day, unless you have used this credit for meals, side-trips, lodging, or other expenses.

 

If you are delayed in returning to Kathmandu from your climb or trek for reasons beyond the control of Higher Path Treks, such as delayed or cancelled flights, sickness, or injury you are responsible for any expenses associated with extra days.  Generally this amounts to between $30 and $40 USD/day.  If your staff is also required to be with you during this time, then you will be responsible for their expenses as well.  This may happen if staff members are assisting in evacuating you due to illness or injury or if you decide to stay at a climbing base camp for extra days until weather clears for a summit bid.   If needed, it is possible to hire a helicopter to provide transport to Kathmandu from many mountain locations.  The cost is between $5,000 and $6,000 USD, and can be split four or five ways.

 

Meals

 

We purposefully do not include the cost of food during your time in Kathmandu before and after your trek/climb (your hotel is included).  This allows you to pick your own restaurants and eat according to your own budget and tastes.  Most trip participants appreciate this flexibility.   Meals in Kathmandu cost between $2 USD and $15 USD unless you are eating at the most expensive establishments.  On the trek, you have a food budget of 2,800 NPR/day.  If you wish to spend more, you can contribute to the bill to account for the difference.  You can choose items you like from the menus of lodges along your trek, including tea/coffee/boiled water.  Alcohol, bottled beverages including bottled water, and snacks are not included in the cost of your trip, and are not accounted for in the 2,800 NPR budget.  For water, we encourage you to use your own filter to collect drinking water from local taps in order to conserve wood which is used to boil water for drinking. 

 

Itinerary:

 

Day 1

Arrival

4,800 ft.

No Trekking

Lodging Provided: Hotel

Meals Provided:  None (on your own)

 

Arrive from international destinations.  Our staff will pick you up from the airport.  If possible, schedule your arrival for two days prior to the trip start date.  These days are not included in the cost of your trip, however, this extra time will ensure you do not miss our flight to Lukla if one of your international flights is cancelled or delayed.  If arriving on Day 1, schedule your arrival time for before 3pm.  After arriving, we will have dinner at a local restaurant and get some rest in the hotel.  Meet in the hotel Lobby at 6pm. 

 

Day 2

Preparation

4,800 ft.

No Trekking

Lodging Provided: Hotel

Meals Provided: None (on your own)

 

In the morning there is an optional visit to Swayambu Temple (monkey temple), which rests high on a hill to the Northwest.  On a clear day you can see the white crested ridges of the Langtang Himal.  The temple is known for the droves of Reeses monkeys that occupy the stairs on the way to the shrines on the platform above.  For those interested in taking part in this excursion, we will depart from our hotel at 6am.  Everyone else can sleep-in.  After breakfast at 10am, we will have a trip briefing and gear check.  We will need your passports and a passport photo at this time so we can obtain our peak permits.  Following the gear check we will have time to shop for missing items.  Lunch is on your own.  We will have a group dinner at 6pm.  Upon returning from dinner, pack your bags for an early morning flight to Lukla tomorrow.  We may wait in the airport for several hours, so bring a book to read and some snacks.  Hotel.

 

Day 3

Fly to Everest Region, Trek to Phakding

8,563 ft.

3 hrs. Trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Lunch, Dinner (Breakfast on your own)

 

This morning we take a shuttle to the airport for our flight to Lukla- the gateway to Everest Region (called Solukhumbu).  Because this is a mountain flight on a small aircraft, weather delays are common.  Although rare, it is possible that we could wait as long as 8 hours before our flight is ready to depart.  Be prepared by bringing a book and snacks.  The flight is less than 45 minutes long.  We may have turbulence, so if you get motion sickness remember to take your medication as soon as we are called to board.  If we arrive late in the day we will stay in Lukla for the evening.  Otherwise we will walk gradually down-hill for three hours to Phakding.   

 

Day 4

Phakding to Namche Bazar

11,286 ft.

6 to 7 hrs. trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today will be the first strenuous day of hiking.  It is important to get an early start in order to give ourselves ample time to acclimatize by walking slowly.  Walking through rhododendron and giant fir along the Dudh Kosi River we cross two suspension bridges and slowly ascend past the village of Monjo to a checkpoint at Jorsale where our permits to enter Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park will be checked.  We catch a glimpse of 20,889 ft. Kusum Kanguru, and begin a steeper ascent up a ridge toward Namche Bazar.  High on the ridge we get our first view of Everest in the far distance.  Finally, we arrive in the large settlement of Namche Bazar, sometimes called the Sherpa capitol of the Khumbu.  Despite having no roads, Namche has dozens of lodges, several internet cafes, bakeries, and even outdoor equipment shops.

 

 Day 5

Acclimatization Day

11,286 ft.

6 to 7 hr. acclimatization hike

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

After sleeping-in and eating breakfast, we leave our heavy packs behind and take a stroll uphill to the Everest View Hotel.  The area around this Japanese hotel offers some of the most spectacular distant views of Everest, Lhotse, and spire-like AmaDablam.  After a short rest, we continue to the village of Khumjung (12,401 ft.), home of Tenzing Norgay who climbed Everest with Hillary in 1953.  After the historic ascent, Hillary returned frequently to the Khumbu to build schools and medical clinics.  We visit the Hillary School and Khunde Hillary Hospital before descending back to Namche for dinner.  As an alternative, we may visit the Tenzing-Hillary viewpoint.  This view includes seven-thousand-meter peaks of Rowaling Region, granitic peaks of Gokyo Region, and eight-thousand-meter peaks such as Everest and Lhotse.

 

Day 6

Namche Bazar to Deboche

12,956 ft.

6 hrs. trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

A gradual traverse across a hillside gives excellent views of AmaDablam, Lhotse, and the summit of Everest.  A long downhill leads to a good lunch spot, then a gradual, continuous uphill to Tengboche and its famous Gompa (monastery).  Another 45 minutes with a short down-hill leads to the small settlement of Deboche.  There are only three small places to stay.  It is in a beautiful rhododendron grove that stays quite damp, so it can be chilly at night. 

 

Day 7

Deboche to Dingboche

14,469 ft.

4 hrs. Trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Excellent views of AmaDablam and Kangtega, with its small summit spire motivate us to slowly move higher.  We are finally reaching the alpine zone, where soil is dry and sandy, and the trees are few and stunted.  A park-like atmosphere offers good views of Lhotse and Tabuche peak which almost seems to lean over town to the West.  And at last we can see our first objective, Island Peak, to the Northeast.  Dingboche is a large settlement, with small shops, internet, and bakeries. 

 

Day 8

Dingboche to Chhukhung

15,518 ft.

3.5 hrs. Trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

A gradual ascent to Chhukhung along the banks of the Imja Khola (river) offers more excellent views of Lhotse and adjacent peaks, while the awe-inspiring knife-edge northeast ridge of granitic AmaDablam razors skyward to the South.  Nuptse, a 25,790 ft. peak in the Everest Group, spills its glaciers down the valley to the north before the small village of Chhukung comes into view.  Lodge. 

 

Day 9

Acclimatization Day

15,518 ft.

7 hr. acclimatization hike

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

After a leisurely breakfast we begin our stroll up Chukhung Ri (18,208 ft.), a large hill to the North of our lodge.  It is important to walk slowly in order to ease our acclimatization.  It will take between four and five hours to reach the rocky summit almost three thousand feet above us.  From the summit, we can see incredible views of the granitic south face of Makalu, the fifth highest peak in the world at 27,766 ft., as well as Island Peak, Imja Tso (lake), Nuptse, Lhotse, and Pumori.

 

Day 10

Chhukhung to Island Peak Base Camp

16,689 ft.

3 hrs. Trekking

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

We are not gaining much elevation today, but like yesterday, it is important to move slowly in order to keep our heart rates low and speed acclimatization.  Thankfully, the scenery will slow you down.  The cascading Hunku Nup Glacier can be seen to the south, flowing down from a continuous ridge of snowcapped peaks above 6,000 meters.  AmaDablam still dominates the skyline to the southwest, while to the north Island Peak itself stands like a fortress as it protrudes above Lhotse’s south ridge.  Himalayan Blood Pheasants, named such due to their blood-red plumage, frequent base camp in search of scraps of food left behind by climbers.  Unless your appetite is high, eat only a small amount of food at a time while you are at base camp, but eat frequently.  Your goal should be to eat at least 2,000 calories today, but spread-out over many hours.  Eating carbohydrate-rich foods, such as bread with jelly, rice, crackers, popcorn, chips, noodle soup, dried/canned fruit, and candy can make it easier for you to acclimatize.  Drink plenty of fluids, such as tea with sugar.  Caffeine tends to help with headaches.  Rather than sitting still or lying down, go for easy strolls around camp and socialize with other climbers.  This will further help you acclimate.  Pack your bag for our climb.  Then bed-down early for our big day tomorrow.  You may not sleep well due to the altitude, but know that you are ready.

 

Day 11

Island Peak Summit Day

16,689 - 20,305 ft. – 15,518 ft.

10 to 12 hrs. climbing and descending

Lodging Provided: Tent or Lodge (depending upon ending location)

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Wake at 1:30am for hot drinks and breakfast.  Depart by 2:30am.  As we set-off this morning, start slowly.  Take small, rhythmic steps and time your breathing with your movement.  The first part of the route scrambles through several bands of rock. Keep a slow, consistent pace.  Eventually we arrive on the glacier, where we don crampons and rope-up.  After crossing the glacial plateau, detouring around crevasses as needed, we begin to ascend a 50 degree, 400 ft. ice wall using a fixed line.  Check that your crampons are attached properly before we begin the ascent.  At the top of the wall, we follow a knife-edge ridge to another fixed-line up a short, steep section to the summit.  Most parties take between six and eight hours to reach the summit.  From the summit we have incredible views of Makalu, Cho Oyu, AmaDablam, Baruntse, and Naputse.  Our return to camp will take between three and four hours.  Once at camp, we rest for an hour before packing-up and heading down further to Chukkung Village.  Heading down from camp reduces the likelihood that someone will become increasingly ill once we are off the mountain (many people experience altitude illness on descent).

 

Day 12

Rest Day/Celebration

14,469 ft.

0 to 2 hrs. trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Our plan for this day will depend upon how people are feeling after the climb.  If rest is needed, we can stay in Chhukhung for another day.  If everyone is feeling OK to walk two-hours back to Dingboche, we will continue to lower elevations.  Once in Dingboche, we will have a celebration meal.  Today is the last day we spend with those who are only climbing Island Peak, so it is time to say goodbye to some group members.

 

Days 13 & 14

Alternate summit days/weather days

Lodging Provided: Tent or Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Day 15

Dingboche to Pangboche

13,074 ft.

4 hrs. trekking

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we walk back along the Imja Khola (river), with excellent views of AmaDablam as we approach.  Once in Pangboche we visit the monastery where the head Lama will be petitioned to provide a Puja Ceremony for our expedition.  A Puja is a Buddhist devotional ceremony.  In this case offerings are given to the gods for the protection of our climbing team.  It is customary to make a donation of 1000 NPR (about $12 USD) to the monastery in exchange for the ceremony.  Because our local staff are Buddhist, this ceremony is an important part of any expedition.  After the ceremony we will relax, use internet if desired (available for a charge), and eat as much as we like.  This is the last village we will be in for many days.

 

Day 16

Pangboche to AmaDablam Base Camp

15,000 ft.

4 hrs. Trekking

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we continue to base camp by crossing a small bridge across the Dudh Kosi River.  AmaDablam’s Southwest Ridge is clearly visible as we approach base camp, and climbers can often be spotted as they descend the highest portion of the route above the “Dablam”, or hanging glacier that resembles a necklace.  Unlike base camps for high peaks in North America, AmaDablam base camp rests on a large field of grass, where a stream runs nearby.  Our base camp set-up includes a kitchen tent, dining tent, sleeping tents, and toilet tent.  Because human waste and animal feces are perpetual problems for the cleanliness of water sources we may choose to erect our base camp on the far side of the Southwest Ridge which has an alternate water source.

 

Day 17

AmaDablam Base Camp to Camp I to Base Camp

15,000 ft. - 18,698 ft. – 15,000 ft.

6 to 9 hrs. climbing and descending

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Sack Lunch/Snacks, Dinner

 

The schedule of our remaining days is quite flexible.  We may need an extra day to organize our food/fuel/equipment, or we may need a rest day.  If possible, it is a good idea to begin our acclimatization process today.    The hike to Camp I is primarily on trail, with a strenuous talus field followed by low-angle slabs with a fixed line just before reaching camp.  It is possible we could encounter snow or ice along the route if there has been recent weather.  We will carry light packs with only what we need for the day, plus some food and fuel to be dropped at Camp I for later use.  Camp 1 is at 18,696 ft., which makes our ascent slow-going due to the altitude.  Views on the way to camp are incredible, and include the pyramidal Ombigaichan (also called Mingbo Peak), and serrated ridge that births the Nare Glacier.  After resting at camp for an hour or so, we begin our descent back to base camp for a good night’s rest.

 

Day 18

AmaDablam Base Camp Rest Day

15,000 ft.

No Trekking

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today is a rest day, and gives us the opportunity to do fixed-line practice.  We will practice ascending/descending, and clipping past anchor points.  Our advanced team will continue to Camp II and III today to check fixed-lines.  We will also sort the gear we will need for the upper mountain.

 

Day 19

Base Camp to Camp I

18,696 ft.

3 to 5 hrs. Trekking/Climbing

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we move to Camp I along the same route as two days previously.  We should be faster today after some rest and our acclimatization hike.  We will ferry more supplies with us that will be brought to Camp II.  We sleep at Camp I for the night.

 

Day 20

Camp I to Camp II to Camp I

18,696 ft. – 20,089 ft. – 18,696 ft.

8 to 10 hrs. climbing and descending

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (you will be cooking)

 

Today the real climbing begins.  You will be carrying your alpine boots, sleeping bag, warm layers, some food, and gas in your backpack to stash at Camp II.  Our advanced team will have already cached the tents and some other gear.  Wear your approach shoes or another shoe that is comfortable on rock and relatively level hard snow (crampons usually not necessary).  Most of the route above Camp I is fixed with ropes.  You will first traverse on or below a blocky ridge before reaching the base of Yellow Tower.  There is a traverse into the base of Yellow Tower that is very exposed.  Be sure to position yourself below fixed lines so you can use them effectively.  Yellow Tower is the technical crux of the route, but most expedition members find the climbing higher on the mountain to be more physically difficult.  The route on the tower consists of about eighty-feet of vertical climbing in the 5.8 range.  Although this may be an easy climb at sea level, you will be climbing near twenty-thousand-feet with a backpack and approach shoes.  The need for physical preparation cannot be overstated.  Try to use your ascender as a self-belay rather than a pull-up bar as you climb the rock.  Once at the top of this short pitch Camp II is not far away.  Camp II is perhaps the most stunning camp you have ever used.  It is to the Himalaya what El Cap Tower is to Yosemite Valley.  The camp is perched atop a spire with more than 1,000 ft. of exposure.  This camp can get crowded, so we may need to get creative in our choice of tent platform.  It is important that you carry with you an ice axe with an adze tool, since we may need to chop tent platforms into steep snow.  We need to pack out our human waste from this site using blue bags when we stay here in a few days.  After dropping-off some supplies we descend back to Camp I for some well deserved rest.

 

Day 21

Rest Day at Camp I

18,696 ft.

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (you will be cooking)

 

Today we rest.  Our rest day helps us acclimatize and ensures that we are ready for the rapid ascent to the summit above Camp II.  It also gives time for our staff to restock Camp I so we have excellent food and plenty of fuel for melting water and cooking.  The views from Camp I at sunset are extraordinary, as clouds settle into surrounding valleys and jagged peaks catch the red glow of low angle light.

 

Day 22

Camp I to Camp II

20,089 ft.

3 to 5 hrs. climbing

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (you will be cooking)

 

Today we wake early and move back up to Camp II, bringing a few more supplies with us in case we don’t have the weather we want for our intended summit day tomorrow.  Then we get some rest.  If weather is good, we have a big day tomorrow. 

 

Day 23

Camp II – Summit – Camp II

20,089 ft. – 22,349 ft. – 20,089 ft.

10 to 16 hours climbing

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, snack lunch, dinner (you will be cooking)

 

Today will be one of the most challenging and beautiful days of your life.  We begin by traversing steep snow and mixed snow and rock slopes to the beginning of several steep snow, ice, and rock couloirs.  Be sure to stand off to the side here, as climbers above you will send down debris.  Once on top, we work our way along a knife-edge ridge and up a snow slope to Mushroom Ridge.  This ridge gained its name from the mushroom-like formations of ice and snow that overhang its precipitous length.  This is the location of Camp 2.7.  This camp was established after 2006, when an ice avalanche fell on Camp III, killing several climbers and Sherpas.  If our team is strong enough, we will skip Camp 2.7 and continue to the summit.  If needed, we will establish Camp 2.7 and spend a night here before the final push.  This is dependent upon space, since Camp 2.7 has the fewest places for tents on the route.  We do not use Camp III due to the danger of ice avalanche.  Shortly after passing Camp 2.7 we reach Camp III, which is situated on a huge level area below and to the side of a hanging glacier.  Above and to the right of Camp III is a long ice ramp with intermittent bands of rock poking through.  We ascend this, and continue into steep snow, over a bergshrund (often we lower into it and climb up the other side), and finally the summit.  The summit is relatively flat, with plenty of space for groups of climbers.  Views include Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, and Makalu along with dozens of seven-thousand-meter peaks and hundreds of six-thousand-meter peaks.  The beauty of the mountain, the route, and the views make this perhaps the most beautiful mountain on earth.

 

Day 24

Return to Base Camp

Lodging Provided: Tent

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner (you cook breakfast and lunch)

 

Today we head back down.  This requires taking down our camps, which means we will have very full packs.  Be sure to use a chest harness while rappelling to keep yourself upright. 

 

Day 25

Base Camp to Tengboche

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Day 26

Tengboche to Namche

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Day 27

Namche to Lukla

Lodging Provided: Lodge

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today will be the final celebration with many of your staff.  Because many of our staff live in Solukhumbu they will not be returning with us to Kathmandu.  If you would like to tip, today is the day.

 

Day 28

Fly Lukla to Kathmandu

Lodging Provided: Hotel

Meals Provided: On your own

 

Day 29

Rest Day/Celebration in Kathmandu 

Lodging Provided: Hotel

Meals Provided: On your own

 

Day 30

Weather Day

Lodging Provided: Lodge or Tent depending on location

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Day 30

Weather Day

Lodging Provided: Lodge or Tent depending on location

Meals Provided: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Day 32

Flights home

 

NOTE:  It is highly recommended that you do not book your flight home until at least two days after the trip end date.  Our itinerary includes spare weather days, but it is possible for our Lukla flights to be delayed for several days in a row.  One past expedition waited six consecutive days in Lukla for weather to clear.  A delay of this duration would use all available weather days.  The cost of weather delays beyond what are included in the itinerary are not included in the cost of your trip.  If your summit days have bad weather, and you would like extra weather days for the climb of AmaDablam, it is usually possible to stay at base camp and continue to climb.  There are occasionally circumstances that prevent this from happening, such as an injury or illness that must be attended to.  In order to compensate our staff for days of work and pay for your food we ask each climbing member to contribute $60 USD per extra day.  Please remain flexible, as a delay of this nature may require restocking base camp.

 

 

AmaDablam Packing List

 

Passport

• You will get a visa upon entry.  The cost is 40 dollars for less than 30 days, or 100 dollars US for more than 30 days.

 

Color Passport Photocopies (2)

• One you will bring on the trek with you.  One will stay in Kathmandu.  These are in case you lose your passport.

 

Passport Photos (6)

• You will need photos for your visa, your peak climbing permits, your trekker ID card, and your certificate following the climb. Six total.

 

Credit/Debit Cards

• Call your bank and let them know you will be using your credit/debit card overseas.
• Credit cards are only accepted at more expensive hotels and restaurants.  However, if the card is stolen, it can be cancelled without loss of money
• Bring a debit card to get cash (Nepali Rupees) from local ATMs and banks.  The daily withdraw limit is often less than 300 USD.  Call your bank to increase this limit if possible.

 

American Dollars (Cash)

• American dollars are accepted for your Visa Upon Arrival.  You will need exact change in twenty-dollar-bills or a one-hundred-dollar-bill: $40 for up to 30 days, $100 for up to 90 days.  
• USD (cash) in one-hundred-dollar-bills will give you the best exchange rate when converting to Nepali Rupees (NPR) at exchange booths.  Twenty-dollar-bills are also accepted at exchange booths, though the rate is usually not as good.  USD is rarely accepted by smaller vendors, so it is best to exchange most of your USD for NPR.
• Bring Nepali Rupees with you on the trek/climb for the following items:
  • Tips for your staff.  Budget $10 USD/day of your trip, but make sure the currency is converted to Nepali Rupees before leaving Kathmandu.  This will be divided amongst all of your staff equally.
  • Money for snacks, if desired.  Budget $6 USD in NPR for each day you are trekking/climbing.
  • Optional money for internet, battery charging, and/or showers.  Cost for internet: $3 to $6 in NPR.  Cost for shower: $2 to $4 in NPR.  Cost for battery charge: $1 to $5 in NPR.  
  • Optional money for alcohol. Cost of a beer on a trek: $4 to $7 in NPR.
• Travelers checks are not generally accepted in Nepal.

 

Envelopes (5)

• Envelopes are used for giving tips to staff on the last day of your trip
• Bring 5

 

Packs

 

Trekking Pack/climbing pack

• 65-85 Liters
• Ice tool attachment system
• Gear loops helpful, but not necessary
• Side straps (compression straps) that can be used to carry closed-cell foam pads
• Deuter, Black Diamond, Arcteryx, Osprey, Mammut, Marmot
• Will be used to approach the mountain, stock camps on the mountain, as a summit pack (will be emptied) and to take-down camps on descent.  Keep it light-weight.

 

Duffel Bag

• 80-110 Liter
• Water repellant fabric
• Be sure the zippers are strong- they will take some abuse
• Shoulder straps helpful, but not necessary
• Loops for tying the pack off to pack animals
• The duffel will be locked to prevent theft while your gear is being stored
• Marmot, Gregory, North Face, REI
• Can be purchased for under 30 dollars in Kathmandu
• Will be used to transport climbing equipment and food to and from Base camp.

 

Waterproofing

• One waterproof pack cover big enough to fit over your large backpack when it is full
• Two contractor bags to further waterproof your gear inside duffel bags and backpacks.  These are stronger than garbage bags, but otherwise look similar.
• Large, sturdy waterproof bags are available for purchase in Kathmandu.

 

Hydration

 

Camelbak/hydration bladder (optional)

• 2 to 4 Liter capacity
• MSR makes very durable and light water bladders as well as hydration hoses that attach to these bladders (sold separately).
• Will be used on the approach for hydrating and in camp to transport water for cooking.  We will not use this while climbing since it will freeze.

 

Thermos

• 1 liter or greater capacity
• We like the Fifty/Fifty brand and hydroflask because they fit well in water bottle pockets on backpacks and are wide-mouth.
• Will be used to keep liquid from freezing at night, to refill hot water bottles, and to provide you with a steady supply of warm fluids to drink.

 

Nalgene waterbottles (2)

• One liter capacity each

• Two are needed because of the importance of hydration at altitude during our long summit day.  You will also be carrying your thermos for a third liter.
• Hard plastic water bottles that can hold hot liquids
• Will be used for hydration while in sub-freezing temperatures on the mountain.  Will also be used as hot water bottles to be placed in your sleeping bag at night. 
• Metal can work, but gets very cold and will need to have a water bottle jacket when hot liquids are placed inside in order to minimize the risk of burning yourself.
• Nalgene or similar.

 

Water bottle Jacket/parka (1)

• One insulative jacket that your 1 liter Nalgene water bottle will slide into in order to maintain the heat of warm liquids.
• The jacket should have an attachment system for your backpack to make it easy to access your liquid.
• Your other water bottle can be insulated in your backpack by wrapping it in extra clothing, while your third liter is in your thermos
• Outdoor Research water bottle parka

 

Pee Bottle (optional)

• Some men (and women!) prefer to use a pee bottle and relieve themselves in the comfort of their tents rather than venture outside when it’s cold or stormy.

• Wide mouth is necessary
• If using a Gaitoraid bottle . . . label it!
• We recommend the wide-mouth 48 oz Nalgene Cantene, which is a very light and  collapsible water bottle with a very wide opening.  32oz is too small for most people.
• Women can use a pee funnel, such as the “Freshette”, combined with the pee bottle

 

Stove

• A light-weight iso-butane stove is necessary for every member of the expedition. 
• Will be used above base camp for melting snow into water and for cooking.
• Melting water is a very time consuming process that can take several hours each morning.
• Must be a butane/propane stove (not liquid fuel).  This is the gas that is available for us to purchase in Nepal.  We cannot transport fuel aboard aircraft.
• A jet-boil will work, but the igniter tends not to work at altitude.  Also be careful when storing the jet-boil, since small droplets of water in the pot tend to freeze quickly, causing the whole set-up to be stuck together inside.
• Our favorite is the MSR Reactor because it melts water very quickly.  Our second favorite is the MSR Pocket Rocket because it is compact and light-weight, but it does not perform nearly as well in the cold.
• MSR, Primus

 

Personal Pot

• 1 to 2 Liter capacity
• Will be used for self-care on the mountain:  Melting snow, making tea, hot water bottles, extra soup, etc.
• Aluminum or titanium

 

Lighters (2)

• You must keep the lighters in your pocket or on a necklace so they stay warm or they will not function in cold temps.

 

Sleeping Gear

 

Sleeping Bag (1 of 2)

• You will need two bags.  This first bag is for camping on the approach and for base camp.  It will be left at base camp while your warmer bag will be left at a higher camp so you do not need to shuttle it up and down the mountain as you acclimatize.

• 600 to 800 fill down sleeping bag
• Rated to 10 degrees F or colder conditions
• Baffled Hood and zipper
• Should not be too large, as this will allow cold air to circulate around your body
• Just enough room to accommodate wearing a puffy coat and puffy pants inside the bag if it is especially cold
• Marmot, Northface, Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, Brooks Range, Valaundre
• You can rent this bag in Kathmandu for around $1 USD/day, but it will be very bulky.  This is not of great concern because our basecamp materials will be brought-up by pack animals.  You may need to pay extra baggage charges on the internal flight if you are over capacity.

 

Sleeping Bag (2 of 2)

• 800 fill or 800+ fill down bag rated to at least 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Should be as light-weight and compressible as possible.  You will carry this up/down the mountain.
• Should be an expedition quality bag with hood and baffled zippers.
• This bag will be used at higher camps, and left at higher camps when you return to base camp while acclimatizing.
• Marmot, Northface, Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, Brooks Range, Valaundre
• Do not rent this bag in Nepal.  Rentals will be too bulky/heavy.  The lighter and more compressible, the better.

 

Compression Stuff Sacks (3)

• Light weight, waterproof, compressible stuff sacks for both sleeping bags
• Another stuff sack for your expedition parka as well
• Outdoor Research, Sea to Summit

 

Sleeping Pad (1 of 2)

• You will need two sleeping pads
• This sleeping pad should be closed-cell foam- not inflatable
• Will be used for sitting-on while in camp, as a wind block for stoves, and as padding while sleeping
• Z-rest Pads (by Cascade Designs) work well

 

Sleeping Pad (2 of 2)

• Inflatable sleeping pad
• Bring a patch kit, and know how to use it.
• This pad will be used on top of your closed-cell foam pad to add comfort when sleeping on rocky and uneven surfaces such as Camp I and II.
• For those accustom to using only closed-cell foam pads when camping, you are encouraged to consider bringing an inflatable pad as well.  Many of the camps on the mountain have large jagged rocks beneath the tent platforms that make sleeping difficult if not well padded.
• Pro-lite 4, neo-air, X-therm

 

 

Head

 

Baseball Cap

• Packable, light colored, with a dark under-brim is best, but any will work
• Make sure this fits comfortably under a helmet (no button on top)
• Outdoor Research (OR)

 

Warm hat

• Fleece, wool, or synthetic. 
• Be sure it covers ears well, and will not easily blow away.
• Should fit under your climbing helmet comfortably (no tassels or ball on top)

 

Balaclava

• Light-weight and Snug fitting
• Allows you to breath easily
• Fleece or wool
• Good neck coverage
• This will reduce wind-burn and add some warmth.  It can be combined with your neck gaiter if you need extra protection and warmth

 

Silk/Nylon Buff

• A tube of fabric with open ends. 
• Light color
• Will be used as a light-weight balaclava, for keeping dust out of nasal passages, and for sun protection
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 3 dollars

 

Fleece Neck Gaiter

• Should be a cinch on the top to convert the gaiter to a hat
• Serves as a back-up hat in case you lose yours (important consideration)
• Keeps spin-drift out of your jacket and cold wind off your neck
• Quickly converts to a balaclava when pulled-up over mouth and nose
• Available for less than 5 dollars in Kathmandu

 

Headlamp

• Bright, spot-light setting, and low, economy setting
• At least 200 lumen max setting
• Will be used for route finding early in the morning and on descent
• Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut

 

Headlamp Batteries (3 sets)

• Lithium will give you longer lasting performance in cold temperatures.  Be sure they are compatible with your headlamp, and bring three sets total.

 

Sunglasses

• Full UV protection
• These will be used on the approach and descent, and can serve as a back-up if you lose your glacier glasses on the route

 

Glacier Glasses

• Very dark/reflective lenses.  The darker/more reflective, the better.
• Must have side shields or a wrap-around design
• Keeper cord/croakies
• Nose Shield not necessary, but good for those prone to sun-burn
• Julbo (brand)

 

Climbing Helmet

• Lightweight and durable
• Ultra-light foam-bodied helmets easily break when carried by pack animals or when stored inside compressed packs.  If this is your choice, extra care must be taken to insure it isn’t damaged.
• Black Diamond, Petzl, CAMP, Grivel

 

Hands

 

Garden Gloves/work gloves

• Nitrile
• Thin gloves that make it easy to manipulate the gates of locking carabiners
• Rubbery, non-breathable palm
• Dexterity is more important than warmth
• Will be used as a liner glove, and as a climbing glove in warm conditions
• Atlas or other brand

 

Chemical Hand Warmers

• 8 pair

• 10 hr. (6-8 hr. is OK)
• Do not buy warmers with a sticky backing
• Will be used under wrist cuff of garden gloves to warm blood as it flows to the fingers while climbing
• Will be used in boots and in sleeping socks when it is not possible to heat water bottles due to fuel conservation.

 

Liner Gloves (1 pair)

• Windstopper fleece or soft-shell
• Mid-weight
• Black Diamond, Outdoor Research
• Will be used when trekking, or over garden gloves or under mittens when more warmth is needed
• Ideally these have enough dexterity to tie knots and open carabiners
• Outdoor Research Lodestar Gloves, Gripper, Extra-vert, and storm tracker gloves

 

Technical Ice Climbing Gloves

• Choose a medium-warm pair with good dexterity
• If the glove is warm but too bulky to clip/unclip fixed lines you will have to take them off frequently
• Black Diamond Punisher, Outdoor Research Project Gloves

 

Two-layer Expedition mittens for extreme cold

• Outer mitten of a waterproof, breathable fabric (goretex)
• Inner mitten (removable) of synthetic fill
• Outer mitten can be worn over liner gloves, or over inner mittens depending upon need for warmth and dexterity
• Outdoor Research, Marmot, Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear

 

Feet

 

Expedition Boot

• Double Plastic Boot or 6000 meter boot with incorporated gaiter
• Good to temperatures of -10 F
• Inner boot can be removed from a plastic shell, or there is an incorporated gaiter that zips over the upper boot, or both
• Step-in crampon compatible
• As light-weight as possible without sacrificing warmth
• If you would like to use a single boot (not a double plastic), and have experience with the product in very cold conditions, please speak with your guide(s).  If you have favorable weather, the summit of AmaDablam may be as warm as 30 degrees F.  If it’s especially nasty, it may be as low as -10 F. 
• Scarpa, Asolo, La Sportiva, Koflack.

 

Crampons

• SIZE THEM TO YOUR BOOTS.  If the sizing bar for your crampons is too small to accommodate your expedition boots, you will not be able to climb.

• Step-in/full automatic (the heel locks down and the toe goes under a bail wire)
• Steel front points (aluminum will dull and bend)
• Anti-bot plates (to keep snow from sticking underneath)
• Vertically aligned front points work great.  Horizontal is fine as long as they work well on vertical ice.  Mono points not recommended due to stability on low angle terrain.
• Designed for glacier travel and vertical ice/mixed climbing
• Please bring at least one spare sizing bar for your brand of crampon.  These may need to be special ordered from the company, so do this ahead of time.  The route includes rock and ice.  Crampons sizing bars break.
• Crampons MUST BE SHARP.  If yours are dull, get them sharpened before the climb.  The ice on the final headwall can be very hard.
• Black Diamond, Petzl, Grivel

 

Trekking shoes/Approach shoes

• Sticky rubber sole that works well on rock
• Comfortable for the long approach and trek back (more than 60 miles)
• Performance of the shoe for climbing is second to comfort in trekking, since this will be the majority of its use
• Trail runners are OK if you have used them scrambling, and feel they will not slide on 35 degree rock slab.
• These will be used for the approach, and for climbing all the way to Camp II which includes two short pitches of class five rock up to 5.8 in difficulty (on fixed lines).
• High tops or incorporated gaiters are nice if snow is encountered along the route.  An ankle gaiter may also be used for this purpose.
• La Sportiva, Garmont, Scarpa, Salewa, North Face. Five-Ten

 

Gaiters

• A durable pair of gaiters is helpful for the snow-covered portion of the route above Camp II.
• Ankle gaiters (made by OR) may be used in conjunction with approach shoes/trail runners below Camp II if snow is encountered.
• If you are worried about foot warmth, purchase a pair of insulated super gaiters from Mountain Tools.  These increase the temp rating of your boots by about 10F.
• Outdoor Research, Mountain Hardware, Mountain Tools

 

Socks

• Three pairs of mid-weight hiking socks (wool) to be used on approach and descent
• Three pairs of heavy-weight mountaineering socks for use on the mountain
• Three pairs of liner socks (optional) for those who have problems with blisters (thin synthetic)
• You will hand wash these every day or two.  Bringing many pairs only adds bulk.
• Smartwool, Bridgedale, Icebreaker

 

Down/synthetic Booties (optional)

• Should have a light-weight, insulated sole if possible
• For use around base camp and for peeing in the night
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 20 dollars
• If you have double plastic boots, your inner boot can serve this purpose.

 

Upper Body

 

T-shirts (2)

• Two synthetic t-shirts (running shirts work great).
• A light color is good for reflecting the sun.
• As light weight and packable as possible
• One shirt can be used as a towel after showering
• Outdoor Research, Patagonia, Marmot, Adidas, Champion Gear

 

Long underwear tops (2)

• One medium weight, one expedition weight/micro-fleece
• Light color is good for reflecting the sun
• Synthetic or wool.  No cotton.
• Will be used for layering, as well as for an outer layer while trekking

 

Loose fitting long-sleeve button-up shirt (optional)

• The purpose of this shirt is to protect you from the sun. 
• The secondary purpose is to give you a “town shirt”
• Should be a light color and cool.  Cotton is fine.

 

Fleece or soft-shell jacket

• To be used as a highly breathable but warm layer when hiking up snow covered terrain on the approach.
• Full zip makes it easy to shed the layer or put it on when temperatures change

 

Light-weight Synthetic fill or down jacket

• A hood is a big plus, but not essential

• To be used as part of your layering system when temperatures are just above freezing, but don’t warrant using your expedition parka
• Patagonia, Outdoor Research, Rab, Arcteryx

 

Down Vest (optional)

• If you are generally cold, or if your parka is on the lighter side, this is recommended

• Best if can compress into a small stuff sack
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 60 dollars

 

Expedition Down Parka

• Should be a fully baffled, down filled parka with a hood
• Good to temps of 0 F
• Combined with other layers will give you comfort to -10F
• Should be light-weight and compact for carrying up the mountain
• Outdoor Research, Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardware, Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering, Valaundre

 

Parka Stuff Sack

• A very light-weight, waterproof compression sack for storing your parka in your pack

 

Waterproof/breathable Jacket

• Pertex Sheild, Gore-tex, e-vent, or another light-weight waterproof/breathable fabric
• Chest pocket is nice to have so you have pocket access while wearing your pack or harness.
• Choose light weight over heavy (often more expensive) alternatives
• Be sure the jacket is roomy enough to accommodate several layers underneath
• If the jacket is not new, use Nikwax or a similar product to renew the water proofing.
• This jacket will be used to shed snow, wind, and light rain.  In heavy rain at lower elevations we use umbrellas and ponchos (these jackets will wet-out).
• Mountain Hardware, North Face, Outdoor Research, Helly Hensen, Millet, Mammut, Arcteryx, Rab

 

Poncho

• Small, light, and cheap.  If the poncho is a “one time use” product, bring two.
• Plastic/PVC/silicone impregnated nylon
• Do not bring heavy rubber ponchos
• These are difficult to find in Nepal, so bring these from home.  When it rains, it pours.

 

Umbrella

• This may not get style points in drizzly places like Seattle, but in places where rain means drops the size of ping-pong balls, this is the only thing other than a roof that will keep you dry.
• This item may easily be purchased in Kathmandu or Namche Bizarre (Everest Region) for less than 15.00 USD
• If you bring one from the States, be sure it is durable.  This matters more than weight or compactness.

 

Lower Body

 

Underwear (2 to 4 pr.)

• Some men (and women too) opt not to wear underwear.  Bring at least one pair for bathing in natural water sources and for times of gastro-intestinal distress.
• Synthetic, fast drying, with few seams to prevent chafing. 

 

Long John Bottoms (1 pr.)

• One pair medium weight
• Synthetic or wool.  No cotton.

 

Hiking Shorts that double as a swim suit

• Should be able to be used for hiking and bathing
• Light weight, packable
• Synthetic and fast drying
• Running shorts, men’s bathing suits, or boy shorts work well
• Women should not bring bikinis due to cultural norms. 

 

Hiking Pants

• Light weight and packable
• Cargo pocket with a zipper is a plus
• Zip-offs are fine
• Nylon canvass or other synthetic material
• Mountain Hardware, Outdoor Research, Millet, Arcteryx

 

Softshell Pants

• Mid-weight hiking/alpine climbing style pant
• Insulated pants for skiing are heavy and too warm for conditions while trekking or climbing low on the mountain.
• Will serve as an extra pair of hiking pants for higher elevations
• Can be combined with long-johns to control warmth
• Patagonia, OR, Mountain Hardwear, Mammut, Arcteryx

 

Fleece Pants/micro-fleece pants

• Used for sleeping, or for adding an extra layer under over-pants on particularly cold climbing days. 

 

Synthetic Fill/Down Filled Pants

• Full side zip
• Will be worn at camps and on the climb if we need to wait for parties to clear the fixed lines
• Synthetic fill works well if the pants get wet from melting snow
• Mountain Hardwear, Feathered Friends, Outdoor Research, Rab, Black Diamond
• Down pants can be purchased in Kathmandu for less than $65.

 

Over-pants

• Goretex or another waterproof, breathable fabric
• Reinforced lower leg to protect against crampon puncture
• Side zips
• At least one pocket is helpful for storing camera, sun screen, or snacks
• Mountain Hardwear, Outdoor Research, Arcteryx, Patagonia

 

Hardwear

 

Harness

• Alpine-style harness or light-weight rock climbing harness
• Must have a belay loop
• Avoid harnesses with thin straps and small buckles.  These will be very uncomfortable while rappelling with the added weight of a backpack, and difficult to fasten/unfasten when your fingers are cold.
• Should have gear loops for clipping carabiners etc.
• Our favorites are the Singing Rock Flake harness and CAMP Alp Mountain

 

Jumar (ascender) (1)

• Purchase an ascender for your dominant hand.  For most of us that is a right-handed ascender.

• The ascender should have a grip large enough to be used while wearing bulky gloves or mittens
• A thumb release is preferable to releases that must be operated by other digits since thumb releases work when wearing mittens.
• Petzl Ascension Ascender

 

Carabiners

 

Small twist-lock (auto-locking), key-nosed carabiners (4)

• You need four of these

• Do not buy screw-gate lockers.  These will gradually unlock do to cyclic loading of your jumar (ascender)
• Do not buy “pull-twist” locking carabiners.  Locking carabiners that require two actions are difficult to operate while wearing mitts, and even more difficult when using your left hand without the aid of your right.
• These carabiners will be used to secure you to fixed-lines by attaching to jumars (ascenders), prusiks, or by “crab-clawing” you onto a tensioned line.
• Madrock’s ultra-tech twist lock is a good choice

 

Large Pear-shaped, Twist-Lock, Key Nosed, Carabiners (HMS) (2)

• You need two of these
• The notes on the small twist-lock carabiners above apply to these as well
• One of these carabiners will be used in combination with your figure-8 rappel device.  The other is a back-up to be used with a munter-hitch in the event that you drop your figure-8 . . . which is easy to do when you’re exhausted at altitude and wearing gloves.
• Black Diamond Rocklock Twist-lock

 

Wire gate carabiners (5)

• You need two wiregates to clip your two ice screws to your harness, one wire-gate to attach a rescue prussic to your harness, one to attach your ice axe to your harness, and one large wire-gate for your jumar’s ‘keeper hole’
• Black Diamond wire gate oval, Camp nano 22

 

Figure-8 Rappel Device

• Figure-8 devices tend to work well when descending less-than-vertical terrain because they do not create as much friction or create friction as quickly as tube-style devices such as an ATC.  Most of the descent of Amadablam is less than vertical (between 50 and 70 degrees), so having a little less friction is helpful.
• If a fixed-line becomes encased in ice, a tube-style device may jam, while a figure-8 often (but not always) will allow the rope to continue through.
• Omega Pacific, Blue Water, Mammut

 

Personal Anchor System (PAS)

• Interconnected loops- not a daisy-chain
• Will be used to anchor yourself and to attach to fixed-lines
• Will also be used to extend rappels
• Metolius, Blue Water, Black Diamond

 

Double-length Runner (48 in., 120cm)

• Nylon is better than spectra or dynema/dynex for holding-up to crampon abuse
• Will be used to create a foot-loop if you need to prussic up a difficult section
• May be used to create a chest harness for you when rappelling with a backpack.
• Can also be used to create an improvised anchor in combination with your ice screws if you need to wait for other parties
• Black Diamond Nylon Runner

 

5mm Nylon Cord Prusik loops (3)

• You need three loops.
• Use Sterling cord.  Many other brands become kinked and will not produce friction hitches that hold on thin diameter ropes.

• 5 mil diameter.  Larger diameter will not grip the thin fixed lines well (many lines are only 8 mil, and do not have a sheath). 
• Made by tying 5 ft. sections of cord into a loop with a double-fisherman’s knot
• Will be used to back-up rappels on slippery and thin lines and to add extra safety on less-than-vertical descents when rappelling is not possible due to the fall line.

 

Ice tool leash or 6 ft. of 5mm cord

• This will be used to attach your ice tool to your harness so you cannot drop it on climbers below you.
• This leash should not be a wrist leash.  It should attach from the spike at the end of the grip of your ice tool to your harness.
• Black Diamond Slinger Leash, Grivel easy slider

 

7 mil nylon cordalette (15-20 ft.)

• Will be carried in order to improve fixed-line anchors or to create V-threads if we need to pass other parties while descending

 

Technical ice tool (1)

• An ice tool with a sharp pick made for penetrating hard ice
• Should be an adze tool, not a hammer, since we may need to cut hard snow/ice to create tent platforms and harvest snow for water
• A bent or straight shaft is fine
• Hybrid tools such as CAMP’s Alp Axe Special or the Black Diamond Venom work well on the varied terrain

 

Crampons

(please see the section titled “Feet” above)

 

Ice Screws (2)

• Two, 22 cm screws
• If fixed lines are crowded and we are attempting to descend past other parties we can use these to build alternate anchors in order to pass.
• Black Diamond Turbo Express, Petzl lazer sonic

 

Ice Screw Caps (2)

• These are rubberized caps that cover the tips of your screws to prevent puncturing your clothing or gear while they are being carried.

 

V-thread wire

• One V-thread wire
• Will be used to create an ice-anchor for a rappel in the event of crowding at an anchor/on a fixed line
• Petzl multi-hook V-thread

 

Rescue Knife

• Light, with a carabiner hole to connect to your harness.  For cutting cord.

 

Multi-tool

• Simple, small, and durable
• Pliers, a knife blade, and screw-drivers are handy
• The knife will be used for food prep and cutting cord, the pliers for cooking, and the screw-driver for fixing crampons and trekking poles
• Carry a tool to adjust the pick on your ice axe and the front points of your crampons as well.

 

Trekking Poles

• These are knee saving, and excellent for the approach as high as Camp I
• Snow baskets are great since we may be traveling over snow-covered passes as part of our acclimatization.
• Black Diamond Expedition Ski Pole

 

Personal medical kit and Self-Care

Most of these medications are available in pharmacies in Nepal.  However, it is advised that you consult your doctor and obtain a prescription for these medications since they may interact dangerously with medications you are taking or could exasperate preexisting conditions.

 

Eyeglass case or similar hard case

• This is used to store your medications and prevent pills from being crushed after they are packed tight in your pack

 

Plastic Bags

• 4, one gallon bags
• 4, one quart bags
• Will be used for organizing and waterproofing

 

Medications/pills

• Vitamin supplement (30)
• Iron supplement (30)
• Ciprofloaxin (cipro)  500 mg 2/day for 3 days (12)
• Azithromyocin 500mg 1 x day/3 days (10)
• Cefixime/cefy-O. For UTIs, strep throat, ear infect., bronchitis. 400mg 1/day (10)
• Flagyl/Tinvista (metronidazol) 3 x day for 7 days (12)
• Dromamine/dimenhydrinate  1 every 4 hrs. (12)
• Tylenol/acetaminophen (20)
• Ibuprofin/Advil/NSAID (20)
• Benedryl/diphenhydramine (10)
• Antacids (8)
• Cranberry capsules (for women)
• Monostat (for women)
• Dexamethazone/Decadron (prescription) 4mg/6 hrs. until symptoms are gone
• Diamox/Acetazolomide (20) –this is a sulfa-based drug and interacts with aspirin and many sedatives.
• Personal medications in a 40 day supply (40 days to account for flight time and any unforeseen extensions)
• WARNING:  If you generally take sleeping pills/sedatives, please consult your doctor.  Some of these medications interact dangerously with medications such as acetazolomide which are used to help speed the process of acclimatization, and some may slow acclimatization even in the absence of other medications.

 

Insect Repellent/Deet

• At least 50% deet. 
• We will have our gear transported to basecamp by pack animals.  Using insect repellent on our luggage can prevent insects that are feeding on the pack animals from entering our baggage.

 

Oral Electrolytes (4 packets)

• Electrolyte powder available from pharmacies in Kathmandu

 

Iodine (30 gram bottle)

• An eye-drop bottle of iodine.  Bring bleach if you have an iodine sensitivity.
• Used for wound care and water purification.

 

Eye care

• Bring contacts, cleaning solution, or eye glasses as needed.
• We STRONGLY recommend that you bring glasses and opt not to use contacts on the trekking and climbing portion of this trip.  Cold temperatures and dust can make contacts problematic.

 

Blister kit

• Duct tape (small roll)
• Second Skin (one package)
• Mole skin (one package)
• Band aids (a variety of sizes)
• Antibiotic ointment (one tube)
• Cloth tape (one roll)
• Trauma shears for cutting tape

 

Ace wrap/brace

• If you have a history of ankle or knee pain- even if it is not current- please bring a brace
• Ace wraps are an excellent back-up in case anything unpredicted happens.

 

Oral thermometer

• This can help determine if you have a bacterial infection and its severity

 

Toe nail clippers

 

Tweezers

 

Camp soap/liquid soap/shampoo (2)

• Pack two, 6oz bottles
• The bottles should have a screw-off cap, not a button that levers-up one side of the cap because these leak easily with changing pressure and elevation
• Will be used for cleaning clothes, body, and hands

 

Bar of soap (1/2 a bar)

• This will be used for cleaning clothes and your body.
• If you can find a bar-soap laundry detergent (common in Mexican grocery stores), bring that along with a bar of soap for your body.

 

Sunscreen

• A 10 oz bottle is enough for the amount of skin that will be exposed.
• You can find this in Kathmandu
• If you prefer a particular brand/type, bring it. 
• Think high elevation sun for 10 hours/day . . . and snow glare.
• Your sunscreen should have both UVA and UVB protection.  It should read “broad spectrum”
• Zinc oxide sticks are available in Kathmandu as well.

 

Lip balm (2)

• Should have sun protection

• You can find this in Kathmandu.  Bring your own if you like a particular brand.

 

Tooth brush and Paste

 

Feminine hygiene supplies

• Bring supplies for the month-plus long trip, plus a little extra (works great for wound care too).
• If you choose to bring disposable supplies, tin foil works well to wrap-up the waste and then place it in a plastic bag until the next available trash receptacle.  Just remember to bring tin foil and extra zip-locks.
• If you use a reusable device like a diva-cup, be sure you are able to wash your hands and supplies with filtered, boiled water.  It can be a little more time intensive, but easy to do with the resources available.

 

Personal Grooming Supplies

• Razer(s)
• Hair-brush etc.

 

Water Filter

• In much of the Himalaya wood is used as the primary fuel source for heating and purifying water.  To reduce our impact on the landscape, we request each trip participant to bring a water filter.
• Water filters should be used if gathering water from local taps.  This water is not purified. 
• We do not recommend drinking water from taps in Kathmandu even if it has been filtered.  Until we find a more environmentally responsible alternative, we recommend drinking bottled and boiled water in Kathmandu.

 

Blue bags/human waste removal bags (4)

• Once we are at high camps on AmaDablam, there is no good way to dispose of human waste other than to pack it out.

 

Toilet Paper (2 rolls)

• Bring double-ply in the event you have intestinal problems.
• Available in Kathmandu

 

Lighter

• An extra lighter or box of matches for burning toilet paper if you have to go while on the trail.  To be placed in a plastic bag with a roll of TP and hand sanitizer.

 

Hand sanitizer (2 bottles)

• To be used before every meal, and after every bathroom stop.

 

Brown paper lunch bags (3)

• You will put used TP in these if you need to go while on the trail.
• These can be burned in wood burning stoves at lodges (NOT in cooking fires)

 

1 gallon plastic bag

• For a second, outer bag when packing-out TP in brown paper bags

 

Duffel Bag locks/keys (2)

 

• We can purchase these in Kathmandu. 
• You will want these to keep your gear safe while it is being stored in Base Camp.

 

 

Electronics (optional)

 

These are optional items that others have found useful.

 

International plug adapter kit.

• Voltage: 220-240 Volts (U.S./Canada are 110-120 Volts)
• Primary Socket Types: Indian, Europlug
• 110-120V electronics: Plug adapter + step-down transformer

 

 

I-pod

• Bring an extra battery and/or a solar charger

 

Digital Camera

• Some people bring two: a larger model with a good zoom for the approach, and a smaller one for on the mountain
• When climbing, your camera will need to be compact and fit in an inside pocket of your coat or it will be too cold to operate
• It should have a strap for your wrist and/or neck so you do not drop it on parties below you
• Lithium batteries last longer in cold weather, but even lithiums don’t last as long as they do in warmer climates at lower elevation

 

Digital Camera Batteries

• Because there is no electricity at base camp, you will want to have a stash of extra camera batteries that suits your hunger for photography
• With my compact Panasonic Lumix, I found four (4) lithium batteries to be sufficient for the entirety of my time away from outlets

 

Extra Camera Memory Card

• You can buy this in Kathmandu for about the same as you get for it in the States.  Don’t buy non-name-brand.  These are cheap knock-offs that will malfunction quickly.

 

Thumb Drive/USB stick

• A high capacity USB stick will allow you to trade photos with your friends at the internet shop after the expedition has finished. 
• You can also use the stick to print photos in Kathmandu for your local guides, porters, and cooks who would otherwise have no photos of their trip with you.
• The USB can serve as a back-up in the event that your camera’s memory card is corrupted (this happens often with the amount of deleting and re-shooting that takes place)

 

Solar Charger

• The solar charger can be used at base camp to recharge your camera, cam-corder, cell-phone, or laptop batteries.
• Cell-phone chargers can be fairly small and cheap, while those used to charge lap-tops tend to be large and pricey
• If you bring extra batteries for your device(s), it is often cheaper and less weight
• Brunton Solar Roll is a good example

 

Laptop Computer

• A laptop may serve you well in Kathmandu, but we do not recommend that you bring one on the trek to basecamp due to the effects of temperature extremes on hard drives and the possibility of damage during transport.
• Most hotels in Kathmandu and several tea-houses along our approach provide wireless internet for a charge.  Service is usually slow.
• If you decide to bring your laptop to Base Camp, it will need to be protected in some way from extreme temperatures to prevent damage to the hard drive. 

 

Light socket plug adaptor

• An adaptor that turns a light socket into a plug is advantageous for giving you the ability to charge your camera batteries in your room at teahouses during the approach and return from AmaDablam.
• Often there are only a few outlets in the teahouses we stay at, and these are crowded with the chargers of other guests.
• If you don’t find one in the States, you can purchase an adaptor in Nepal for about 80 cents.  These are prone to failure, so it might be prudent to buy two (they’re small).

 

Snacks (Highly suggested.  Bring 6 pounds)

 

These might seem like an arbitrary addition, but due to the effects of high altitude, exertion, a new diet, and intestinal illness, these can be a saving grace.  When selecting foods, keep this in mind:  You will be somewhat dehydrated, and at altitude your body has difficulty digesting fat and fiber.  Citrus tasting, salty, and sweet foods are high on the list of cravings- as are crunchy foods for reasons we haven’t quite figured out.

 

Plastic Bags

• Please repackage your snacks in bags that are unlikely to result in spilled food during transport on pack animals.

 

Sports drink powders

• Enough for 10 liters

• Isotonic beverage containing electrolytes and sugars
• Now is not the time to cut the sugar out of your drink.  You’ll need it.  Often it’s the only thing your body can digest at high altitude.
• Poweraid powder, Gaiteraid powder

 

Protein

• Getting enough digestible protein into you is tough.  Even tougher for vegetarians. It’s helpful if you are able to eat eggs and dairy products.  The diet of the Sherpa people is built upon the backbone of eggs and dairy, and you will even find butter in their tea.
• For non-vegetarians, beef jerky is a good source of protein
• Eggs, cheese, and other dairy will be in daily meals if requested
• For vegans, lentils are in no short supply.  But other sources of vegetable protein are scarce.  You will want to bring your own stash if you have a favorite (nut butters for instance).
• Peanut, almond, cashew, sunflower seed butters
• Protein powder mixes

 

Energy Bars (20)

• Choose a bar that you think you could eat while you are on mile fifteen of a marathon.  Bars that are oily or fibrous tend to be difficult for the body to handle at altitude.

 

We will provide all meals.  However, we don’t have all your favorite foods on hand.  To help you get the nutrition you crave, we suggest you bring some of your favorites with you.  Foods not available in Kathmandu that past expedition members have craved:

• Rice-noodle based stir-fry and soup dishes- like Taste of Thai.

• Salted Nuts
• Tamari almonds
• Beef Jerky
• Whole-wheat pretzels
• Sour patch kids
• Gummy bears
• Black licorice
• Unsulfated dried figs, peaches, pears, apricots, mangos
• Chocolate covered expresso beans
• Bagel chips
• Dehydrated vegetables
• Vegetable chips
• Home-made cookies
• Home-made granoloa bars
• Organic soup mix/miso soup
• Baked pita chips
• Dried Edemame
• Cake mix in a box
• Brownie mix in a box
• Jello cheese cake mix
• Muesli cereal
• Sundried tomatoes
• Pine nuts
• Cous cous
• Quinoa

 

Foods available in Kathmandu (we will have time to purchase these at a store before we leave):

 

• Dark and milk chocolate bars
• Candy bars
• Pringles chips
• Flavored crackers (salty crackers are usually craved more than sweet varieties)
• Cookies/sweet crackers
• Bread (white bread is good to have for those with digestive problems)
• Trail mix with dried fruit and coconut
• Hot chocolate
• Tea/coffee
• Flavored Juice drinks
• Glucose drink powder
• Dried fruit
• Nuts
• Trail mix

REQUIRED EXPERIENCE

 

• Prior multi-day backpacking experience
• Prior experience winter camping/snow camping
• Prior mountaineering experience on steep snow or glacier covered peaks requiring the use of crampons and an ice axe or technical ice tools
• Prior multi-pitch rock climbing experience on routes rated 5.9 or harder
• Prior ice-climbing experience on climbs rated AI/WI 3 or harder
• A working understanding of the use of ascenders
• Extensive experience rappeling 
• Experience above 14,000 ft.
• An exceptionally high level of aerobic fitness and total body endurance
• The ability to carry a 50 lb pack up and down 6,000 ft. of elevation in a single day

 

DESIREABLE EXPERIENCE

 

• Experience above 16,000 ft.
• Experience caring for others at high elevation
• Experience leading multi-pitch rock climbs
• Experience big-wall climbing
• Medical training, such as Wilderness First Aid or First Responder

 

PHYSICAL TRAINING

 

This climb requires a very high level of aerobic fitness, leg strength, and total body stamina.  Although the route has a few steep sections that are close to ninety-degrees, your weight will still be on your legs.  Your training should focus on building the leg strength and stamina necessary for ascending steep slopes up to sixty degrees while carrying a 45 lb pack for up to thirty continuous minutes.  This can be difficult to simulate, but it is possible.  The best training will first build a base of endurance over the course of eight to ten weeks.  This can be achieved by doing trail runs, cycling, swimming, or speed-hiking steep hills.  Running and speed-hiking are the best simulations.  After establishing a base, begin incorporating steep hills into your workouts twice a week.  These hills should be as steep as possible- even steeper than most trails.  Practice speed-hiking these slopes as fast as possible, and add repetitions as your muscular endurance builds.  If hills are not available in your area, you can use a stair master or similar machine.  You can also attach a tire to your rock climbing harness and run up gravel roads with the tire as added resistance.  If you elect to use exercise machines, you should trail-run or hike on uneven terrain at other times during the week to build your stabilizing muscles.  After four weeks of incorporating this training into your weekly routine, begin doing ciruit training with a TRX device or weights.  You can look online to find some excellent exercises and workout plans.  This training should build stability in your shoulders and back while increasing your overall strength and upper-body endurance.  Finally, practice climbing in alpine boots with a 35 lb. backpack at a rock climbing gym or (even better) a local crag.  Fix a line and practice using an ascender as a self-belay.  Make sure to practice using a top-rope first so you can master the technique and can trouble-shoot the probelms that sometimes present when ascenders catch or jam.  When possible, go ice climbing or do some alpine routes to improve your self-care in a cold environment.  More detailed training information and plans are available to those who register for this climb.   

 

 

TRAVEL, EVACUATION, AND TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE

 

We strongly recommend that you purchase travel, evacuation, and trip cancellation insurance.  There are cirumstances beyond the control of Nepal Alpine Guides that may affect your travel, such as flight cancellations, lost baggage, medical emergencies, political instability, or natural disaster to name a few.  Unfortunately, we are generally not able to issue a refund in these circumstances, and your best means of obtaining a refund is through an insurance policy.  Because our participants come from all over the world, we cannot recommend a specific policy that will suit the needs of all of our clientele.  We recommend that you search on-line to find a policy that provides the coverage you are looking for.  If you are a member of a nationally recognized alpine club, discounted travel and evacuation insurance is often available to members. 

 

FOOD & WATER

 

We do not recommend that you eat uncooked vegetables or fruit that has not been peeled.  Doing so may result in food-borne illness.  Water should be either boiled, filtered, or treated with chemicals before drinking.  Bottled water is fine as long as the bottle's seal was intact before opening.  Whenever possible, we encourage our participants to filter their own water from local taps.  This helps protect forests which are cut for firewood to boil water consumed by tourists.  We do not recommend that you drink chaang or other alcoholic beverages that are low percentage alcohol and have not been boiled since these may result in illness.  Raksi, a high percentage rice alcohol, and toongba, a fermented millet drink made with boiled water, are usually fine.

 

Food in Kathmandu is varied.  It is possible to eat Italian, Mexican, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Mediteranian, as well as various Nepali cuisines that are specialties of different regions and ethnic groups.  Prices range from $2 USD for budget meals to $30 USD for high-end restaurants- many of which include live dance shows.

 

Food on treks and climbs is either prepared by a cook at a lodge or hotel along the trekking route, or by a basecamp chef.  The exception to this rule is if you are doing a technical climb with advanced camps, in which case you will be responsible for preparing your own simple meals when you are above basecamp.  The meals prepared at trekking lodges are more varied than you might imagine.  They include noodle dishes, soups, curry, chapatis (flat bread), eggs, potato dishes, egg rolls, momos (Tibetan stuffed dumplings), Tibetan fried bread, buckwheat porridge, pizza, muesli, and the ever-present daal bhat (lentils and rice with vegetable curry).  Drinks include coffee, black tea, milk tea, hot chocolate, ginger tea, lemon tea, masala tea, local alcohol, bottled soda and beer, and occassionally the famous Tibetan tea or "butter tea".  In larger villages you may also find apple pie, cake, yak steak, chicken sizzler, and even cheese fondue.  You have a 2,800 NPR per day buget for meals.  Meals are much more expensive as you ascend in elevation due to the cost of transporting goods.  This budget will cover three meals a day, but will not be enough for you to frequently order the most expensive menu items such as yak steak.  If you wish to purchase a special meal, like a yak steak dinner, please ask your guide if it is within the budget.  If not, you can still have the meal but you will be asked to contribute toward the bill.  Bottled beverages and alcohol are not included in the cost of your trip.  Expect to spend between $4 USD and $7 USD for a bottled beer or soft drink.  These items are not part of your 2,800 NPR budget.  Snacks, such as candy bars, cookies, and chips are also not included in the 2,800 NPR budget.  If you would like to purchase snacks, you must do so with your own money.  We recommend a daily snack budget of $6 USD.  This is usually more than enough, especially if you have brought some of your favorite snacks with you from home or from Kathmandu.  

 

If you are staying at a climbing basecamp with us, our basecamp chef will prepare meals for you each day.  These meals are often similar to those served at trekking lodges, though our chefs purchase local ingredients from farmers along the route, so the food is very fresh and most find it more flavorful than the options available at lodges.  We also try to make simple foods for the first day or two at basecamp, such as soups, noodle dishes, and sandwiches, to help your digestive system adjust to the altitude.  After completing a climb you may be treated to specialty items like fried wontons or cheese and sausage loaded french fries.

 

TRAVELER'S DIARRHEA

 

What are the causes?

 

Traveler’s diarrhea is a “catch-all” that refers to illness that is spread by bacteria, protozoa, and viruses.  Contaminated food and water are the most obvious sources.  Wind-blown dust contaminated with human or animal feces is another source.  Some bacteria and viruses can pass to others by touching surfaces or sharing bedding or clothing.  Exposure to high elevation alone can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea- even when there is no microbial infection.

 

Prevention

 

Only consume water that has been boiled, filtered, treated with chemicals, or a combination of the above.  I recommend filtered and boiled.  Bottled beverages are safe to drink if the seal is not broken, but create plastic waste that is difficult to dispose of responsibly in Nepal.  Only consume foods that have been thoroughly cooked.  Fresh vegetables and fruits often harbor bacteria.  If you would like to eat fresh vegetables/fruit, check to see if they have been treated in an iodine/water solution.  You may also peel fruit and veg to reduce the likelihood of infection.  Wash hands frequently with soap and water.  Use hand sanitizer if hand washing is not possible.  Bring two rolls of double-ply toilet paper from your home country.  Toilet paper in Nepal tends to be thin and tears easily, making the ‘fecal-oral’ route of contamination more likely- especially if you have diarrhea.  Avoid eating an abundance of sweet or sugary food.  Bacteria love it.  Bring extra pairs of underwear.  You never know what could happen if things get interesting “down there”.  Women should bring two spare pairs of cotton underwear (breathable) and medication for yeast infections and UTIs.  Care for yourself properly and maintain hydration at high elevation.

 

Treatment Strategy

 

For those who have traveled previously in the developing world, this is a word of caution.  Traveler’s diarrhea in Nepal is not to be underestimated.  Dehydration is dangerous, especially at altitude when maintaining proper hydration without an infection is already difficult.  Because of our remote setting in Nepal, we do not recommend letting a sickness run its course without using medication.  Medication is most effective if it is used as soon as symptoms present themselves.  If you wait, you may no longer be able to keep down liquid, and this means you will also not be able to keep down medications.  This can require evacuation lasting many days, require the help of other expedition members, and result in a change of itinerary for your group.  Needless to say, such a situation can create tension between trekking and expedition members.  If you are feeling ill, please inform your guide as soon as possible and take action to treat a possible infection.

 

Having said this, it is not uncommon for first-time visitors to Nepal to become ill during an extended trip, and when dealt with swiftly and effectively sickness is short-lived and requires little more than a few hours of rest.

 

Prophylactics (preventative medications)

 

Bismuth subsalicylate  (Pepto-Bismol)

Many travel doctors recommend taking two, 262-mg tablets of Pepto four times a day with food.  This has been shown to reduce the likelihood of bacterial infection by as much as 42%.  However, tell your doctor if you will be using Diamox (acetazolamide) to treat altitude sickness, since combining these two medications may prevent the uptake of potassium.  You may wish to stop using Pepto at least a day before taking Diamox.

 

Although using antibiotics as a prophylactic (preventatively) has been shown to be up to 95% effective against bacterial infection, it is not recommended to use antibiotics in this way due to the possibility of developing bacterial resistance. Antibiotics also increase sensitivity to sunlight, which is severe at altitude.

 

No other prophylactics have been shown to have a significant affect on traveler’s diarrhea.  If you would like to use other therapies or medications- even herbal medications- make sure to consult your doctor first.  Some herbal supplements can cause problems at altitude. 

 

Treatment (After the first loose stool)

 

Take an adult dose of loperamide (brand name Imodium) & an antibiotic such as Ciprofloaxin “Cipro” or Azithromycin.  In the United States, obtaining antibiotics requires a prescription.  Many participants purchase medications in Nepal where they are cheaper, but doing so also presents some risks since you may be allergic to these medications or they interact with other medication that you are taking.  A doctor will give you the best information on this matter.

 

Maintain hydration with electrolytes and warm liquids, and eliminate caffeine, animal fats, and dairy from your diet.  Soup, plain noodles, rice, and salty crackers are good choices.

 

Treatment for Intense bowel cramping, foul smelling gas, diarrhea/nausea

 

Take an adult dose of Loperamide (brand name Imodium) & begin a course of an antibiotic such as Ciprofloaxin “Cipro” or Azithromycin.  Also begin a course of metronidazole or tinidazole (brand name “Flagyl”) or another antimicrobial that targets protozoa such as Giardia.  Antibiotics alone will not treat protozoa infections, and if left untreated, these infections are some of the most severe.  Symptoms often reemerge after periods of dormancy.

 

Maintain hydration with electrolytes and warm liquids, and eliminate caffeine, animal fats, and dairy from your diet.  Soup, plain noodles, rice, and salty crackers are good choices.

 

Treatment of severe nausea or vomiting, diarrhea, bowel cramping

 

Immediately take an anti-nausea medication, such as Meclizine.  Dramamine is a common motion sickness medication that may be substituted, but is not as effective.  Wait 20 minutes for the medication to take affect, then follow the directions immediately above, including taking Loperamide, Cipro, and Flagyl. 

 

Treatment for prolonged vomiting, diarrhea, inability to keep-down food

 

Take nothing.  No food, no water, no medication.  The goal is not to trigger any more vomiting or diarrhea, since this will result in further dehydration.  Wait at least two hours after the last episode of diarrhea/vomiting, and then carefully sip plain water (no electrolytes), a few tablespoons at a time.  After ¼ of a liter of water has been kept down, take anti-nausea medication.  Continue to rehydrate with small sips of water, changing to an electrolyte solution after ½ of a liter has been drunk.  Finally, after a liter of fluid has been consumed, take Luperimide.  Eat a cracker or other plain food in nibbles to determine if taking antibiotics will be possible.  If the cracker stays down, begin a course of antibiotics.  If this medication stays down, wait 20 minutes and begin a course of Flagyl.  Take another anti-nausea tablet according to the directions of the medication (usually once every 4 hrs.).  Continue to rehydrate slowly with electrolyte beverage.  Only after you have drunk at least one liter of water and one liter of electrolyte beverage should you attempt to eat anything.  Often it is best to sleep on an empty stomach before attempting food.  Always hydrate before taking food or medication.  Continue to rehydrate with electrolytes and eat simple foods while finishing the course of your medications.

 

For more information:

David J. Diemert (2006). Prevention and Self-treatment of Traveler’s Diarrhea.  Clinical Microbial Reviews. July; 19(3): 583–594.  Online:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1539099/

 

LODGING

 

Most trekking routes and climbing approaches pass through villages where people live for some or all of the year.  Many villagers have built additions onto their homes for tourists to use as lodges.  Others have built separate buildings that are used exclusively by tourists.  Whatever the arrangement, the lodging experience is generally similar.  Rooms are constructed of plywood, have a door with a lock, and contain two separate beds, complete with mattresses, pillows, and sometimes blankets.  Generally you will use your sleeping bag to ensure you stay warm enough at night.  Most lodges have an outhouse containing a squat toilet outside, while some along major trekking routes, like the Everest Base Camp Trek, have Western-style toilets in shared bathrooms within the lodge.  Gas and solar-heated showers are available in larger villages for an additional charge (usually between $3 and $6 USD).  Meals are served in a separate dining room with a wood-stove at its center.  This is usually the only heat available outside the cooking fire in the kitchen.  Dining rooms have benches and tables, and in some wealthier villages there may even be televisions that frequently play Bollywood musicals.

 

If you are on a homestay trek or another trip that contains a homestay, then the lodging experience is quite different.  On these trips you will be staying in peoples' homes rather than in lodges.  If you are staying in a Sherpa home, then you will sleep on benches that double as beds around the perimeter of a multi-purpose room, just as the family does.  There will be no menu, since you will eat whatever meal the family is preparing that day.  You may participate in cooking, or may even help pick vegetables from the garden or milk a cow in order to help with meal preparation.  Toilets are usually stilted pit-toilets outside the home.  On our homestay treks we strive to help you understand local culture by encouraging active participation in daily life.

 

For climbing trips, we provide spacious and sturdy basecamp tents.  These are similar models to the Northface Bastion 4.  We also provide a cooktent, and for larger group sizes, an additional dining tent.  If you are doing a technical peak requiring advanced camps above base camp, you may be asked to provide your own light-weight climbing tent to use at higher camps.  This allows us to move between two or more established camps in order to acclimatize.

 

BATHROOMS

 

Most bathrooms in Nepal contain a squat toilet, a pitcher, soap, a basin of water, and sometimes an additional hand washing area either inside or outside the toilet area.  Local custom is to use the toilet, wipe with the LEFT hand, use the RIGHT hand to handle the pitcher in order to wash your left hand over the toilet (not over the water basin), flush the toilet by dumping a few pitchers full of water into the toilet, then open the toilet door with your right hand and complete washing your hands at the hand washing station.  Locals always keep the finger nails of their wiping fingers trimmed very short.  Many long-time travelers in Asia and North Africa prefer this method, but we understand that most first-time travelers to Nepal from Western countries will not want to adopt the local method.  If you prefer not to use your hand to wipe, then be sure to carry toilet paper with you at all times (you will not find it in public restrooms) and be prepared to pack the used TP out in a paper bag that is inside a sealed plastic bag if you are not certain that local plumbing will handle a wad of TP.  You can then burn the paper bag full of used TP in a fire-safe location- such as inside the wood-burning stove of a trekking lodge.  Do not burn the bag in a cooking fire.  This would be like someone burning used TP on your gas stove before you were about to fry eggs in the morning.  If you choose to burn the bag outside, then do so in a talus field or another location where you are one-hundred percent certain there is no fire hazard.  We have seen several wildfires caused by attempts to burn trash, and these sometimes result in disaster for local people who lose homes, crops, or even loved-ones in the resulting blaze.  

 

TREKKING DIFFICULTY

 

How difficult is trekking in Nepal?  First, let me state the obvious by saying that difficulty is subjective, and when it comes to trekking, difficulty will depend upon your fitness, health, experience in the particular terrain, weather at the time of your trek, expectations, and genetic factors such as rate of acclimatization.  Now let me do my best to answer the question.

 

If your trek is located in the southern part of Nepal, called the Terai, then your elevation will only be a few hundred feet above sea level.  Trekkers in this region will encounter hills which are a few hundred feet high, mud, occassionally dense forest, and possibly river crossings.  The greatest challenges will be sun, heat, humidity, and in monsoon season (June-August) torrential rain.  Although elevation gain and loss is minimal in this region, many trekkers feel tired due to the heat.

 

If portions of your trek are located between 2,000 ft. and 10,000 ft. in elevation, then you are trekking in an area known as the "Middle Hills".  This area is characterized by deep river gorges that separate steep ridges.  This is one of the most agriculturally diverse regions of Nepal due to the variety of elevations and the moderate climate.  As a result, the Middle Hills are populated with many subsistence farming communities of various ethnic and caste groups, making cultural trekking very popular.  The trekking here requires good leg strength due to elevation gain and loss as trails work their way along ridges, down to river valleys, and back up to ridges and over passes.  It would not be uncommon to gain three-thousand feet, lose two-thousand feet, and gain another three-thousand feet before reaching the next village where you would stay for the night.  Although the effects of high elevation are minimal at these moderate elevations, many trekkers find trekking in these region physically challenging due to the undulating topography.

 

If portions of your trek are between 10,000 ft. and 18,000 ft., then you are trekking in the Mountain Zone.  Contrary to what you might think, trekking in this zone is often less demanding on your leg muscles than trekking in the Middle Hills.  This is because ancient glaciers carved wide valleys that permit trails to more gradually ascend the terrain than at lower elevations.  There are places where trails ascend out of a glacial valley, over a pass, and drop into another glacial valley, and these are exceptions to the rule.  Although leg strength may not be taxed as much as trekking through the Middle Hills, the Mountain Zone will certainly require aerobic stamina.  Your heart-rate and respiratory-rate while trekking will be elevated to equal that of a light jog or even a run at especially high elevations.  For this reason it is very important to have good cardiac and respiratory health.

 

A characteristic of Nepal's mountain topography that may surprise European and North American trekkers is the elevation of treeline and snowline.  Treeline is frequently above 14,000 ft., while permanent snowline is above16,400 ft. Grasslands extend as high as 18,000 ft.  This is a result of Nepal's latitude, which is similar to that of Florida or Egypt. The result is a high elevation landscape which resembles that of much lower elevations in Europe or North America.  It is possible to trek on easily defined trails above 17,000 ft. without any knowledge of mountaineering.  A word of caution, however, since if a storm passes through it may dump as much as four-feet of snow in a single night, making travel on foot nearly impossible and introducing the serious risk of avalanche.  Many unguided high elevation trekkers have become lost in storms and buried by avalanches because the conditions when they departed their lodge in the morning did not cause them concern. 

 

INTERNET

 

At the time of writing this (2016) wireless internet is becoming widely available at lodges along the Everest Base Camp Trek and in the Annapurna Region.  The cost is generally $5 USD for 100 minutes.  If you have a smart phone with an international data plan, you can also access internet this way from most locations where you have a clear view in two directions.  Local data plans are very affordable.  In either case, internet tends to be slow and is best used for email rather than loading websites that have images.  In some locations, however, uploading pictures and even using Skype is possible.  I suspect internet will only improve in the future.  If you are doing a trek in a more remote area, such as Dolpo, Katchenjunga, or the Barun Valley, it is unlikely that you will find internet along your route.

 

Most hotels in Kathmandu offer complimentary internet.  If the service is not fast enough for you, there are numerous internet cafes located in the Thamel district of Kathmandu where you will be staying before and after your trip.  Just ask your guide to point one out to you.

 

SHOWERS

 

Hot showers are available in your hotel room in Kathmandu on either end of your trek or climb.  Gas and solar heated showers are available along your trekking route in larger villages for a charge of between $3 USD and $7 USD (not included in trip cost).  Showers are also sometimes available at climbing basecamps if you are on a climbing trip.  These are solar-heated, and their temperature is dependent upon the weather.

 

CELL PHONE USE

 

It is relatively simple to get an international plan for your cell phone for the length of time you will be in Nepal.  Check with your provider.  To get the best coverage for your phone and the cheapest international rates, consider purchasing a SIM card in Kathmandu.  This may require a different phone than the one you own, since not all phones accept SIM cards.  Ncell has the best coverage in Nepal at the time of writing (2016), and the SIM card will cost you less than $5 USD.  After purchasing the card, you will also need to purchase minutes for your phone.  This can easily be done at any of the small shops selling groceries in Thamel, Kathmandu where your hotel is located.  At the time of writing, a one-minute call to the UK will cost 5 NPR/minute, to the USA 2 NPR/minute, Germany 5 NPR/minute, Canada 2 NPR/minute, Sweden 5 NPR/minute.  Most other countries are 5 NPR/minute or less, with a few countries costing 48 NPR/minute.   The current exchange rate for NPR to USD is 1 NPR is equal to roughly 1 cent (0.01 USD).

 

Cell reception in the mountains of Nepal is getting better every year, and is generally better than what you would expect to find in similarly isolated areas in North America.  The Everest Region (Solukhumbu) has reception in most large villages, as does the Annapurna Region.  Cities, such as Kathmandu and Pokhara, also have good coverage.  If you are heading into a more remote region, or you are located at the bottom of a canyon or gorge, cell reception is likely to be limited or non-existant.  

 

ELECTRICITY AND BATTERY CHARGING

 

In Kathmandu, there may be no power for twelve to eighteen hours per day, depending upon the load shedding schedule and the current availability of electricity from hydropower.  This means that most hotels and restaraunts will not have power from the electrical grid during this time, but most will have solar lights.  Larger businesses, or those with more money, will have a generator to supply power during this time.  Unfortunately the electricity schedule changes every day, so you must look online or in a local paper to see the load shedding schedule for the week.  In otherwords, if you want to use WiFi or charge your devices, you must do so during the hours when there is electricity, or you must find a local business that has a generator.  Our favorite place to use internet and charge devices when there is no power is at Himalayan Java Cofee, located at Tridevi Marg, Keshar Mahal Marg, 44600.  This is within walking distance of your hotel.  Your guide or any local will know where it is located.  They also have delicious coffee, sandwiches, and desert.

 

WEATHER

 

Because of Nepal's proximity to the equator combined with its impressive spread of altitudes from sea level to over eight-thousand-meters, it is possible to experience 100 F (38 C) and 10 F (-12 C) temperatures within the same week of trekking if you are traveling from the low elevation Terai into the Himalaya.  Monthly average temperatures in Kathmandu range from 48 F (9 C) in January to 73 F (23 C) in June, with daytime temperatures as high as 84 F (29 C) in June and nighttime lows as low as 36 F (2 C) in January.

 

Nepal has a monsoon climate, which means that heavy rain should be expected almost every day from late May through early September.  The best months for trekking and climbing in the mountains are mid October-early January, and late March through late April.  The exception is if you plan to go to the far west of Nepal, into such places as Dolpo, which lie in the rainshadow of the Himalaya.  These locations can be visited during the monsoon season when they are warmer and inhabitants have not migrated south.  Many travelers visit Nepal during the summer monsoon season, and it is still possible to see incredible scenery if you are willing to keep a flexible itinerary to account for flight cancellations and other transportation delays that result from stormy weather.  And of course, pack a sturdy umbrella.

 

Table of Average Monthly Temperatures (C) and Precipitation (mm)

 

Month	Temp. (C)	Precip (mm)
January	3.9	18.5
February	5.2	24.2
March	9.8	29.7
April	13.9	44.7
May	16.8	83.8
June	18.7	215.7
July	18.7	351.1
August	18.4	311.3
September	17.2	196.9
October	13.4	54.9
November	8.9	8.6
December	5.3	11.6

 

FLIGHT DELAYS AND CANCELLATIONS

 

Although food and lodging are not covered in your trip cost before or after the trip dates provided on your itinerary, we strongly reccommend that you arrive in Nepal at least two days before the beginning of your itinerary, and depart at least two days after.  This is because in the event your flight to Kathmandu is delayed, you will still arrive in time to join the group in Kathmandu before they depart for the mountains.  If you arrive after your group has already departed for their trek or climb, we will make every effort to connect you to your group, but doing so may require rebooking your internal flights or hiring private transportation which will have an additional cost.  If you are considerably late, it may not be possible to connect you with your goup, and because all permits have been paid and staff have been hired for your trip, it will not be possible to issue a refund.  In the event your baggage is lost en route to Nepal, the extra time at the beginning of your trip will also allow time to find your baggage in Kathmandu before departing on your trip.  Having extra time at the end of the trip is often even more important, since it is not uncommon for internal flights and other transportation to be delayed or cancelled due to bad weather. 

 

HIGH ELEVATION CONCERNS

 

Nepal is known for high mountains, and as a result travelers are often concerned about getting altitude illness.  We design itineraries that have built-in acclimatization days, a slow rate of ascent, and extra days in the event of bad weather or altitude illness.  This adds safety and comfort to our trips that has played a large role in our summit success rate and favorable reputation.  This is also why our trips tend to be longer than trips offered by other Nepalese companies.

 

Unfortunately, despite these measures some trekkers and climbers who travel above 11,000 ft. (3,350 m) will experience mild Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).  Symptoms may include headache, nausea, loss of apetite, and general fatigue.   

 

Below is what we reccommend to prevent and treat AMS.

 

After arriving at a higher elevation (above 7,000 ft.), engage in low intensity exercise, such as walking.  Avoid lying down or napping even if you are tired, since this will lower your respiratory rate and exasperate symptoms.  Drink plenty of warm fluids with sugar, such as tea or hot chocolate.  Caffeine and ibuprofin (400 to 600mg) also tend to help.  Do not eat heavy meals when you first arrive at high elevation, particularly those that have large amounts of animal fat or dairy.  Stay out of the sun, and keep your body temperature cool.  The morning is when people experience the most severe symptoms, since the respiratory rate is slowed during sleep.  Upon waking-up, sit-up slowly, wait a full minute, and then rise to your feet.  If you have a headache, drink some caffeinated tea and walk for fifteen minutes to increase your respiratory rate and blood circulation.  Most people experience relief immediately after light exercise and ingesting fluids.   

 

Those with mild asthma are capable of participating in high elevation trekking, though special precautions should be taken.  While trekking dust and dry high elevation air combine to create challenging circumstances for those with asthma.  Maintaining proper hydration, moving slowly, and taking breaks in the shade is very important.  Albuterol must be carried by participants (two inhalers) and one inhaler must also be provided to the guide or to a family member or friend who knows how to administer it.

 

If you are traveling to elevations above 11,000 ft., it is advised to take 125mg (½ of a 250 mg tablet) of acetazolomide (brand name Diamox) the evening before ascending above 11,000 ft., and another 125mg every morning and evening you spend above 11,000 ft.  Discontinue the dose when you begin descending.  Some people with an allergy to sulfa drugs have a sensitivity to acetazolomide, and it can interact with some medications.  For these reasons we recommend that you speak with a medical doctor before using acetazolomide.   If you have a history of headaches at altitude, we also reccommend you take 400 to 600mg of ibuprofin 45 minutes before ascent.  Some participants have also had good results with Excedrin, which contains acetominophen, asprin, and caffeine.  

 

If you will be traveling above 16,000 ft. (4,877m) we also reccommend that you carry dexamethasone (brand name Decadron).  This medication is for Cerebral Edema, which is a severe condition caused by inflamation of the brain due to exposure to high altitude.  This condition is extremely rare, but can be deadly if untreated.  Dexamethosone is a prescription drug in most Western countries, and you should speak with your doctor about obtaining a prescription and other information such as dosage and use.  

 

A list of recommended medication is provided in the packing list associated with your trip.     

 

COSTS IN NEPAL

 

Below is a table of costs for typical items in Nepal in 2016.  Costs are in USD for ease of understanding but payment should be in Nepali Rupees (NPR):

 

Item	Cost
Cheap meal in Kathmandu	$2 to $6 USD
Moderate meal  in Kathmandu	$8 to $15 USD
Cup of tea at a  restaraunt	$0.15 to $1.60 USD
Cheap Lodging in Kathmandu	$5 to $35 USD
Expensive Lodging  in Kathmandu	$50 to $250 USD
Trekking Map	$4 to $16 USD
Trekking pants	$8 to $35 USD
Down Jacket	$25 to $160 USD
Sunscreen	$5 to $8 USD
Trekking Poles	$10 to $50 USD
45 liter backpack	$25 to $65 USD
Down-filled pants	$55 to $70 USD
Expedition Mitts	$20 to $35 USD
Buff	$2 to $3 USD
Down Booties	$12 to $30 USD
Down sleeping bag	$50 to $130 USD

 

 

PROTECTING THE HIMALAYAN ENVIRONMENT

 

We abide by the following practices and ask our trip participants to do the same whenever possible:

 

• Filter your own water rather than purchasing boiled water from villages that use firewood for cooking.  
  • By filtering our own water we help reduce the cutting of local wood to boil the water, which is resulting in deforestation throughout the country.
  • If your trip takes place away from the popular treks of the Everest Region and Annapurna Region we suggest that you bring your own water filter to reduce the impact of your stay on the local forests. Along popular trekking routes propane, kerosene, and butane are brought-up from major cities for cooking fuel.

 

• Pack-out or burn toilet paper.  
  • Many villages have plumbing that cannot handle toilet paper, or rely on pit toilets where toilet paper will not fully decompose.  In these circumstances it is better to carry your used toilet paper with you in a paper bag that is enclosed in a sealed plastic bag (double-bagged) until the paper bag can be burned in a fire-safe location.  The same applies if you need to go while you are on the trail.  If you need to deficate where there are no toilet facilities, solid waste should be buried four-to-six inches below ground level.  If you do not have a trowel, you can dig with the heel of your shoe or a rock.

 

• Pack-out all trash, including beer bottles, soda bottles, wrappers, feminine hygiene products, and wet-wipes.
  • All trash in Nepal's mountains is disposed of in local landfills.  In other words, if you purchase a soda at 16,000 ft. and throw the bottle in a trash can in your lodge, that soda bottle will be thrown in a hole behind the lodge where it will stay indefinitely.  If you look carefully while you are on a popular trekking route, you will see overflowing landfills in every major village.  By packing-out your trash and disposing of waste in Kathmandu, you help protect Nepal's mountain environment. 

 

• Eat local food and drink local drink whenever possible.
  • By eating food that is grown locally you reduce the impact of food transport while supporting the local economy.  You also have a better culinary experience.  The impact of food transport includes trucking the food from Kathmandu or Pokhara to trailheads, moving the food by pack animal to higher elevations, and finally using porters to transport the food through national parks and conservation areas where pack animals are not allowed.

 

• Pack-out human waste from climbing basecamps.
  • With the help of the NGO "Karma Project", we have begun using a blue-barrel system to pack-out human waste from our climbing basecamps.  By packing-out our waste we protect watersheds that are used by tourists and locals alike for drinking water.  We also preserve the visual and olfactory experience of the mountains for future climbers and trekkers.  We were the first Nepali company to use such a system, and we hope that other tourism companies across Nepal adopt this policy too.

 

PROTECTING LOCAL PEOPLE AND CULTURES

 

By booking a trip with us you are helping to protect local people in a variety of ways.  Nepal Alpine Guides was founded by Karma Geljen Sherpa who experienced abuse as a porter and guide in the mountain tourism industry of Nepal.  He was seldom provided with insurance, proper training or equipment, or even basic clothing such as shoes so he could do his work in the mountains.  His only payment for some expeditions were tips, which frequently never came.  Karma was able to build Nepal Alpine Guides with the help of former clients and friends so that he could employ tourism workers for good wages, provide insurance, and provide proper equipment, clothing, and training.  In addition, Nepal Alpine Guides is supported by Karma Project, an NGO that contributes funding to medical treatment, education, and infrastructure in the villages where mountain tourism workers live.  Every time you book a trip through Nepal Alpine Guides, you contribute to Karma Project, and therefore to the welfare of hundreds of villagers across Nepal.