• International airfare
• Lodging and other expenses outside of trip dates (if you arrive early, or leave late).  We recommend that you arrive at least two days before your scheduled trip and depart at least two days after in order to account for possible travel delays.
• Optional snacks between meals (Budget $8 USD/day if buying snacks from lodges along the trek)
• Additional food items at meals if you have a bigger than usual appetite (a second dinner item, desert, etc).  If you have a big appetite you may want to budget an additional $5/day.
• Meals in Kathmandu (budget $20 USD/day in Kathmandu)
• Optional alcohol and other bottled beverages if you buy them.  Boiled water and tea are included in cost.
• Optional gas heated showers on the trek
• Optional internet charges
• Optional battery charging on the trek (available for an extra charge through lodges where we stay)
• Travel, trip cancelation, and evacuation insurance
• Personal clothing and equipment rental or purchase if needed
• Nepal Visa On Arrival fee ($50 for 30 days, $125 for 90 days)
• Tips for guides and staff (budget $10 USD/day.  For a 20 day trip this is $200 USD).  This should be converted to Nepali Rupees (NPR).
• Any expenses resulting from severe weather, travel delays or cancellations, injury, illness, political instability, natural disaster, or other circumstances outside the control of Nepal Alpine Guides.

PAYMENT POLICY

• Deposits are due 180 days before your trip start date to hold your place on the trip.  If your deposit is not received your place is not guarenteed.
• The balance is due 90 days before your trip start date.  
• If you are registering 90 or less days before a trip start date, full payment is due at the time of registration.  
• We will reach out to you with payment details. 

 

CANCELLATION & REFUND POLICY

• Any payments made are non-refundable unless Nepal Alpine Guides cancels the trip.  This includes for medical emergencies.  This is to protect other trip participants and Nepalese staff from the need to cancel the trip if we receive last minute cancellations (we can still run the trip if we keep the money to do so.)
• If Nepal Alpine Guides cancels the trip then all funds are refundable in full, including the deposit.

Itinerary Details:

 

Flexibility

 

We do our best to stick to our itinerary for the Himalayan Alpine Climbing Course, but please remain flexible.  We may decide to change the itinerary in order to take advantage of weather windows when going over a pass or when summitting Mera Peak.  We may also change in order to gain access to ice climbing that is in condition (ice can be fickle), or to check-out a better rock climbing venue.  Sometimes we might use one of our weather days early to allow students to acclimate a bit better, or to get over some travelers diarrhea.  There are many things we can't predict or control- this is mountain travel in Nepal after all!  

 

Delays

 

If you are delayed in departing on your trek or climb due to reasons beyond the control of Nepal Alpine Guides, such as delayed or cancelled internal flights due to bad weather, your group can use spare weather days that are built into your itinerary.  During these days the cost of your lodging in Kathmandu or Pokhara is covered.  If these days occur while you are trekking, then the cost of both your lodging and meals are covered.  If the delay extends beyond the number of built-in weather days in your itinerary, you are responsible for your expenses during these extra waiting days.  If the period of waiting is so long that it affects your ability to complete the original itinerary, Nepal Alpine Guides will provide an alternative trip for the remaining days, or you may complete part of your original itinerary.  If you decide not to participate in the alternative trip, Nepal Alpine Guides is unable to provide a refund.  

If you are delayed in returning to Kathmandu from your climb or trek for reasons beyond the control of Nepal Alpine Guides, such as delayed or cancelled flights, sickness, or injury you are responsible for any expenses associated with extra days.  Generally this amounts to between $35 and $50 USD/day.  If your staff is also required to be with you during this time, then you will be responsible for their expenses as well.  This may happen if staff members are assisting in evacuating you due to illness or injury or if you decide to stay at a climbing base camp for extra days until weather clears for a summit bid.   If needed, it is possible to hire a helicopter to provide transport to Kathmandu from many mountain locations.  The cost is between $5,000 and $6,000 USD, and can be split four or five ways.

 

Meals

 

We purposefully do not include the cost of food during your time in Kathmandu before and after your trek/climb (your hotel is included).  This allows you to pick your own restaurants and eat according to your own budget and tastes.  Most trip participants appreciate this flexibility.   Meals in Kathmandu cost between $3 USD and $20 USD unless you are eating at the most expensive establishments.  On the trek, you have a food budget of 2,800 NPR/day.  If you wish to spend more, you can contribute to the bill to account for the difference.  You can choose items you like from the menus of lodges along your trek, including tea/coffee/boiled water.  Alcohol, bottled beverages including bottled water, and snacks are not included in the cost of your trip, and are not accounted for in the 2,800 NPR budget.  For water, we encourage you to use your own filter to collect drinking water from local taps in order to conserve wood which is used to boil water for drinking. 

 

 

Itinerary

 

NOTE:  

We will adjust the itinerary to account for weather, route conditions, and student needs.  For example, our ice climbing routes may not be in good condition, so we may climb alpine ice near the Mera La instead.  Remain flexible.

 

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu

4,800 ft.

No Trekking

Lodging Included: Hotel

Meals Included: No meals included

 

Arrive from international destinations.  Our staff will pick you up from the airport.  If possible, schedule your arrival for one or two days prior to the start-date of your trip.  This will allow you some time to recover from jetlag, and will give you extra time in the event your flight is delayed or cancelled coming into Kathmandu.  These extra days are not covered in the cost of your trip, and will cost you around $35 each including food and hotel if staying in budget accommodation.  We would be happy to book you a hotel during these extra days if you like.  If you cannot arrive on an earlier day, try to schedule your arrival for before 4pm on the start-date of your trip.  After arriving, we will have dinner at a local restaurant and get some rest in the hotel.  Meet in the hotel lobby at 6pm to go to dinner.   The hotel information will be sent to you after booking. 

 

Day 2

Preparation in Kathmandu

4,800 ft.

No Trekking

Lodging Included: Hotel

Meals Included: No meals included

 

In the morning there is an optional visit to Swayambu Temple (monkey temple), which rests high on a hill to the Northwest.  On a clear day you can see the white crested ridges of the Langtang Himal.  The temple is known for the droves of Reeses monkeys that occupy the stairs on the way to the shrines on the platform above.  For those interested in taking part in this excursion, we will depart from our hotel at 6am.  Everyone else can sleep-in.  After breakfast at 10am, we will have a trip briefing and gear check.  We will need your passports and a passport photo at this time so we can obtain our peak permits (if we do not already have it).  Following the gear check we will have time to shop for missing items.  Lunch is on your own.  We will have a group dinner at 6pm.  Upon returning from dinner, pack your bags for an early morning flight to Lukla tomorrow.  Let us know if you would like a lesson in how to pack and adjust your backpack.  We may wait in the airport for several hours, so bring a book to read and some snacks.  In the event our flight is cancelled due to bad weather, we will fly the following day.  Your itinerary includes extra days in case of such events, which are common even during the most stable seasons.

 

Day 3

Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, trek to Paiya

9,182 ft.

45 minute flight, 5 to 6 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we need to be at the airport early in order to be ready for our flight into Everest Region.  Usually we will arrive at the airport between 6:30am and 8am.  Bring a book and snacks in case our flight is delayed or cancelled, which is not unusual.  Our flight gives us views over the Kathmandu Valley and panoramic views of the Langtang Himal, Rowaling Himal, and the front ranges of Everest Region.  If you look carefully, you can see the impressive Gauri Shankar and Melungtse mountains, and the massive Shishapagma.  We land at an airstrip with a slight tilt upward, which helps the aircraft rapidly slow down on this short runway.  After arriving we meet our porters and begin trekking south and east away from the popular trekking routes of Everest Region toward the remote valleys of Makalu-Barun National Park.  Our route weaves downhill through small settlements, past gardens and groves of bamboo before crossing the Handi Khola river on a bridge and eventually traveling through the teahouses of Surke.  Above Surke we cross the Chutok La (pass) and an hour further we arrive in Paiya.  Paiya is home to the families of several members of our staff, so our welcome is always a warm one.  Note:  Paiya is also called Chutok, Poya, and Paiyan.  In Nepal there are many languages and dialects, and this will be reflected in the name-places on maps.

Day 4

Paiya to Panggom

9,337 ft.

5 to 6 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Monastery homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

After traveling on a wide, easy trail we reach a junction marked on a boulder and turn uphill on a steep, winding mountain trail.  We pass by zobyoks (the Sherpa word for a cow/yak crossbreed) grazing in free-range pasture and walk through dense rhododendron forest.  As we near Panggom we can see Numbur Himal, a massive seven-thousand-meter peak, along with Mt. Karylung.  If he is present, we will be met by Tobten Lama of the Panggom monastery who is the uncle of Karma Sherpa who runs Nepal Alpine Guides.  We overnight at the monastery after listening to the beautiful chanting of the young monks in the evening.

 

Day 5

Panggom to Sibuje

9,350 ft.

3 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

After breakfast with our Buddhist hosts in Panggom we trek to Sibuje, the home of Karma Sherpa who is the owner of Nepal Alpine Guides.  Sibuje is situated on a ridge high above the Dudh Kosi River Valley, with incredible views in all directions.  Homes sit on terraced hillsides where crops like buckwheat, mustard, and millet are grown.  In Sibuje we visit with community members, take a tour of the village, and enjoy the delicious cooking of Karma’s mother.  We also review the plan for the mountain training course that will take place in the coming days.  After dinner, we have our first class.

 

7pm – 8pm  Med Kit:  Contents of an expedition medical kit.

 

Day 6

Sibuje and surrounds

9,350 ft.

Amount of trekking will depend on lessons each day

Lodging Included: Homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

In 2017 students on the Himalayan Alpine Skills Course developed rock climbing routes (sport and top-rope) near Sibuje.  These will be used for training.

 

9am – 9:30am  Wilderness First Aid: Bacterial and Protozoa Infections

9:30am – 10am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario practice

10am – 10:30am  Ropes: Diameters, types, strengths, weaknesses, and applications. 

10:30am - 11am  Slings, Daisy-chains, and cord: materials, strengths, weaknesses, and dangers

15 min. break

11:15am – 12:15pm  Ropes: Flaking, stacking, and single-coiling

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

2pm – 3pm  Knots:  Overhand (follow-through and on-a-bite), Figure-8 (follow-through and on-a-bite), butterfly, double-fisherman’s, tying the middle of a rope (bite) through a harness or anchor with overhand follow-through on a bite

3pm – 4pm  Hitches:  Clove, autoblock, prussic, kleimheist

4pm – 4:30pm  Contents of a Guide’s backpack/harness: med kit, light, sunscreen, snacks, water, hand warmer, spare sunglasses, small stove and fuel,  ice screw, 2 prussics, V-thread, spare cord, knife

4:30pm – 5pm  Review

5pm – 7pm  Dinner

7pm – 8pm  Hazards: Avalanches

 

Day 7

Sibuje and surrounds

9,350 ft.

Amount of trekking will depend on lessons each day

Lodging Included: Homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

9am -9:30am  Wilderness First Aid: High altitude illness and treatment

9:30am – 10am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario practice

10am – 10:30am  Harnesses: Types and buckling/double-backing.  Tying-in with a figure-8 or using locking carabiners as a middle climber.

10:30am – 10:45am   Carabiners: Types/shapes and uses with various hitches

10:45am – 11am  Belay devices: Types, uses, strengths, weaknesses.  Also use of the munter hitch.

15 min. break

11:15am – 12:15pm  Ropes:  Flaking/stacking at a belay.  Coiling with a nail-knot.  Backpack Coil.

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

After lunch move to a place with rocks for placing protection

2pm – 3pm  Knots: Review from yesterday.  Learn munter-mule hitch.

3pm – 3:30pm  Anchor hardware: placing pitons

3:30pm – 4:30pm: Anchor hardware: placing nuts, hexes, and cams

4:30pm – 5pm  Review

5pm – 7pm  Dinner

7pm – 8pm  Hazards: Ice and Rock Fall

 

Day 8

Sibuje and surrounds

9,350 ft.

Amount of trekking will depend on lessons each day

Lodging Included: Homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

9am -9:30am  Wilderness First Aid: Cuts, Scrapes, and burns

9:30am – 10am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario practice

10am – 10:30am  Belaying: Lead Belay

10:30am – 11am  Belaying: From the top of a climb

15 min. break

11:15am – 12:15pm  Ropes:  Shortening using mountaineers coil, shortening using kiwi coil.

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

2pm – 3pm  Knots: Review from past two days.  Teach bowline for one-piece anchors and fixed-line attachment at the center of a rope.

3pm – 3:30pm  Anchors:  1 piece (rock/tree) and 2 piece (bolts/pitons)

3:30pm – 4:30pm  Anchors: 3 piece (pro) and 4 piece (pro)

4:30pm – 5pm  Review

5pm – 7pm  Dinner

7pm – 8pm  Hazards: Rope running over a sharp edge.  Carabiner pinches.  Extend anchors or redirect to remedy

 

 

Day 9

Sibuje and surrounds

9,350 ft.

Amount of trekking will depend on lessons each day

Lodging Included: Homestay

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

9am -9:45am  Wilderness First Aid: Broken Bones and splints

9:45am – 10:30am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario practice

10:30am – 11am  Belaying: Review belaying from bottom and top

15 min. break

11:15am – 12:15pm  Ropes:  Attaching to an anchor using clove, tether, and organizing the belay.

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

2pm – 3pm  Knots: Review from past two days.  Practice stacking, belaying a fake leader, setting-up an anchor, belaying from the top while stacking or flaking the rope to organize the station.

3pm – 4:30pm  Rappelling: Extension, autoblock back-up, edges and traverses

4:30pm – 5pm  Review

5pm – 7pm  Dinner

7pm – 8pm  Hazards: Suffocation.  Cooking in a tent (Carbon Monoxide) & snow on tents (burial)

 

Day 10

For those going to Mera Peak:

Sibuje to Ningsow Lodge (or Ramailo Danda if water is available)

For those not climbing Mera Peak:

Students who are not going to Mera Peak will begin their return to Lukla and then fly back to Kathmandu.  In this case students will return to Paiya today, hike to Lukla on Day 11, and Kathmandu on Day 12.  Fly-out on Day 13.

Mera Itinerary continues below:

9,003 ft.

5 hrs. trekking (3 hrs. if headed to Ramailo Danda)

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Our trek today takes us over tumbling creeks and through rhododendron and oak forests with distant views of the Numbur Himal poking through the trees.  We also pass through several small Sherpa and Rai settlements where buckwheat is grown in raised beds and curious children play under colorful prayer flags.

 

4pm -5pm  Hazards: High Winds (build walls, anchor tents with ropes, dig snow cave/find a crevasse)

7pm – 8pm  Hazards: Old fixed lines sticking out of ice.  How to attach to multiple lines.

 

Day 11

Ningsow Lodge (or Ramailo Danda) to Chetra Khola campsite

10,332 ft.

7 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Our hike today will take us through heavily foliated jungle.  Keep your eyes open for signs of wildlife like monkeys, bears, and leopards.  Trail conditions on this section can be steep and slippery.  Occasionally fixed-lines and ladders are present if the trail was washed-out during the rainy season.

 

Day 12

Chettra Khola to Khote

12,109 ft.

7 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Our route today follows the Hinku Khola (River).  This river valley was the site of a major disaster in 1998 when a massive ice avalanche from Mount Kyashar landed in a lake below, instantly displacing billions of gallons of water.  The resulting tidal-wave tore through the valley, widening and deepening the riverbed and drowning livestock, forests, and three villagers as it went.  Thankfully recent geological studies of the lake suggest that a future outburst flood is very unlikely.  Our route will weave in and out of the forest above the steep sides of the newly-cut river valley before following the riverbed to the quaint village of Khote.  Along the route to Khote we should cut bamboo wands that can be used to mark our way along the glaciers on our way to Mera High Camp far above us.

 

Day 13

Khote to Tangnag

14,270 ft.

3 to 4 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Tangnag is an idyllic location backed by Kyashar to the northwest, an impressively steep granitic peak rising to almost 7,000 meters that has seen only a few climbing attempts.  The rising cone of Mera Peak can be seen to the east, while Kusum Kanguru stands like a wall to the west.  It is here where we will base ourselves for the second portion of our climbing instruction.

 

Day 14

Tagnag

14,270 ft.

Instruction day. 

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

9am -9:45am  Wilderness First Aid: Advanced altitude illness (HAPE, HACE)

9:45am – 10:30am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario practice

10:30am – 11am  Students set-up top-rope stations for fixed-line practice

15 min. break

11:15am – 12:15pm  Fixed lines:  Attaching using a jummar, prussic, and crab claw.  How to use a PASS/daisy chain/runner for extension.  Problems with jummars.  Problems with large loads on fixed-line anchors and ropes

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

2pm – 3pm  Fixed lines: Practice setting-up and ascending/rappelling/descending

3pm – 4pm  Improvised Ascending: Using prussics, carabiners, and autoblocking devices to ascend

4pm – 4:30pm  Improvised Descending: Munter hitch, carabiner break, Dülfersitz method

4:30pm – 5pm  Review

5pm – 7pm Dinner

7pm – 7:30pm Fitting Alpine Climbing Boots.  Tying laces correctly.

7:30pm - 8pm  Types of crampons and fitting crampons correctly.

 

Day 15

Tagnag

14,270 ft.

Instruction day.  Minimal trekking.

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

During the morning First Aid sessions, set-up top rope anchors for climbing

9am -9:30am  Wilderness First Aid: Cold Injuries/Frost Bite

9:30am – 10am  Wilderness First Aid: Scenario Practice

10am – 11am  Wilderness First Aid: Review and Scenario Practice (choose a scenario at random)

15 min. break

11:15am – 11:45am  How to place an ice screw and clip into it with the rope.  How to make a V-thread.

11:45am – 12:15pm  Ice Climbing: Movement skills demo and practice

12:15pm – 2pm  Lunch break

2pm – 5pm  Ice climbing top-rope practice with mock-lead rope and ice screws.  Must also build “mock anchors” and attach to them

 

Day 16

Tagnag

14,270 ft.

Instruction day.  Minimal trekking.

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

All-day ice climbing practice.  If water ice is not in here we may do ice climbing practice near the Mera La above Khare.  This is usually alpine ice (glacier ice) rather than water ice (a frozen waterfall).

Evening:  How to set-up the rope for glacier travel

 

Day 17

Tagnag to Khare

16,486 ft.

2 to 3 hrs. trekking followed by instruction

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today is a stunning hike to Khare at the confluence of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers.  The steep north face of Mera Peak stands high above the village, while the Mera La (pass) lies to the east.  Today we will rest and gather our strength for the following days at high elevation.  We will also do demonstrations of snow anchor placement (if possible with snow conditions), and do a demo of crevasse rescue from the comfort of our lodge.  If we did not do ice climbing practice in previous days, we may opt to do this tomorrow after we are acclimated.

 

Trek to Khare before lunch

12pm-1pm  lunch

1pm – 2:30pm  Snow anchors: Deadmen and vertical pickets (if firm snow is found)

2:30pm – 6pm  Crevasse rescue demonstration and practice

6pm to 8pm Dinner

8pm to 9pm  LNT camping (pack it in, pack it out)

 

Day 18

Khare

16,486 ft. to 17,767 to 16,486 ft.

Instruction Day.  5 hrs. day-hike to/from Mera La.

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we will hike to the Mera La to review our ice climbing skills and practice crevasse rescue off the steep ice cliffs.  We must choose a place to practice that is not exposed to rock-fall from the ice above.  We will pack lunches before our departure.

 

7am – 10am hike to Mera La

10am – 12pm  Practice ice climbing on ice cliffs of Mera La

12pm – 12:30pm  lunch break

12:30pm – 2pm Self-arrest practice if snow permits.  Otherwise review snow/ice anchors

2pm – 5pm crevasse rescue and fixed-line practice on the ice cliffs

5pm – 7pm hike back to Khare

7pm dinner

 

Day 19

Khare to Mera High Camp -or- additional acclimatization and practice day

18,958 ft.

6 to 7 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Tents (camping)

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

From Khare we hike east back toward the Mera La where we practiced the day before.  The hike should feel easier today since we had an acclimatization day yesterday.  From the Mera La we turn south, and travel up a glacier strewn with crevasses.  This section can be prone to white-out, so we may need to mark our route with wands cut from bamboo at lower elevations fitted with candy-bar wrappers as flagging.  From high camp we can see Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Chamlang, Kyashar, Kangtega, Peak 41, Malanphulan, Ombigaichen, and AmaDablam.  On a clear day we can see all the way to Katchenjunga on the border with India.  Today is all about resting and preparing ourselves for the summit day tomorrow.  We may have a short discussion about pacing with clients, but not much else.  At high camp some may get altitude sickness, so our plans will adjust accordingly.  Pack your summit pack and check your crampons to ensure they are fitted properly.

 

Day 20

High Camp to Summit to Khare

18,958 ft. to 21,190 ft. to 16,486 ft.

10 to 12 hrs. climbing and descending

Lodging Included: Tents or Lodge (after climbing)

Meals Included: Breakfast, Dinner.  Lunch is snacks while climbing.

 

Today is a long day.  We will wake around 2am to rope-up and begin our climb.  Most of the route is up a gradual snow slope similar in steepness to a blue ski run.  However, the elevation will make this difficult, and it is important that you are in excellent physical condition for the climb.  As we reach the top of the first slope the grade becomes steeper, and just above the terrain flattens and the summit comes into view.  To reach the summit we ascend a short (30 ft.) section of fifty-degree ice.  Views from the summit include five 8,000 meter peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Katchenjunga.  Many say the view from the summit of Mera is the best of any peak below 6,500 meters in Nepal.  We continue down the way we came, and spend an hour or so in high camp resting before taking down camp and heading back down to Khare.  Going all the way down to Khare often prevents altitude illness from becoming severe for those who have begun to feel sick on summit day.

 

Day 21

Spare Summit Day in the event of bad weather, or additional ice climbing day if used earlier.

 

Day 22

Khare to Khote

11,808 ft.

4 to 5 hours trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

We continue back the way we came, resting in Khare for a celebratory dinner at lower elevation.  Enjoy the last spectacular views of peak 41, Mera Peak, and other mountains of the Makalu-Barun region.

 

Day 23

Khote to Zatrwa La pass

14,720 ft.

7 to 8 hrs. trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today we take a short-cut and begin our trek over the Zatrwa La pass.  This is a long and difficult day.  We have saved the pass for our way back since we are already acclimatized, and the risk of altitude sickness as we go up and over the 14,000ft. pass is very low.  Along the route keep your eyes open for the elusive Himalayan Pika, which was not known to exist in Nepal until recently.  These tiny relatives of the rabbit family produce loud whistling distress calls as they hide amongst the crags and talus of the high pass.  The pass has a park-like atmosphere, with its dwarf trees, grasses, moss, and rock gardens.  If snow has fallen recently, the crossing can be somewhat difficult, and may take more time to negotiate.

 

If we have not used our weather days, it is likely that we will use one or two of our weather days at the lodge along the Zatrwa La to do student exams.  Students will practice the skills they learned on the course, and receive a grade based on their performance.

 

Day 24

Zatrwa La Pass to Lukla

9,383 ft.

7 to 8 hours trekking

Lodging Included: Lodge

Meals Included: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner

 

Today is another long day with almost 6,000 ft. of elevation loss.  We first finish crossing the Zatrwa La pass at just over 15,000 ft., enjoying views of Numbur Himal, Kongde, and Kusum Kanguru before making a long, steep descent to Chutanga.  This section is sometimes covered in hard snow or ice, so we will need to negotiate it carefully.  Once back in Lukla we celebrate our final day in the mountains with food and dancing.  Today we must say goodbye to our staff and other mountaineering course students who live in the Solukhumbu and Chaurikharka region.  They will not be joining us for the flight to Kathmandu tomorrow.  This evening is the time to give your staff tips if you are happy with their work.  If you have any clothing or equipment that is not needed on future trips, you are welcome to donate it to the staff as well.

 

Day 25

Lukla to Kathmandu

4,800 ft.

45 minute flight

Lodging Included: Hotel

Meals Included: Breakfast.  (Lunch and Dinner on your own in Kathmandu)

 

We will board an early morning flight out of Lukla for our return to Kathmandu.  This is usually around 7am, but the actual time is dependent upon aircraft schedules and weather.  Flight delays and cancellations are common, so come prepared for a long wait with a book and some snacks.  Once back in Kathmandu enjoy some down time.  We will meet for a final celebratory group dinner around 6pm.  Bring photos on a USB stick to share with fellow climbers.

 

Day 26

Spare weather day/extra exam day

 

Day 27

Spare weather day/extra exam day

 

Day 28

International Departure

 

 

Note:  For those who already have a good base of knowledge and skill in the techniques taught during this course, it may be possible to take the following exam during the training day at Mera La:

 

Exam: 

1. Ice climb up a pitch, build an anchor, and attach to it.

2. Belay a climber ½ way up the pitch you have just climbed, then have them hang.

3. Haul the climber 9 ft. up the ice pitch using a 3:1 pulley system.

4. Fix the free end of the rope and rappel to the climber.   

5. Ascend the rope to the anchor.

6. Continue belaying the climber to the anchor.

7. Lower the climber from the anchor to the ground.

8. Rappel to the ground with an extension and autoblock back-up 

 

 

Passport

• You will get a visa upon entry.  The cost is 40 dollars for less than 30 days, or 100 dollars US for more than 30 days.

 

Color Passport Photocopies (2)

• One you will bring on the trek with you.  One will stay in Kathmandu.  These are in case you lose your passport.

 

Passport Photos (6)

• You will need photos for your visa, your peak climbing permit, your trekker ID card, and your certificate following the climb. Six total.

 

Credit/Debit Cards

• Call your bank and let them know you will be using your credit/debit card overseas.
• Credit cards are only accepted at more expensive hotels and restaurants.  However, if the card is stolen, it can be cancelled without loss of money
• Bring a debit card to get cash (Nepali Rupees) from local ATMs and banks.  The daily withdraw limit is often less than 300 USD.  Call your bank to increase this limit if possible.

 

American Dollars (Cash)

• American dollars are accepted for your Visa Upon Arrival.  You will need exact change in twenty-dollar-bills or a one-hundred-dollar-bill: $40 for up to 30 days, $100 for up to 90 days.  
• USD (cash) in one-hundred-dollar-bills will give you the best exchange rate when converting to Nepali Rupees (NPR) at exchange booths.  Twenty-dollar-bills are also accepted at exchange booths, though the rate is usually not as good.  USD is rarely accepted by smaller vendors, so it is best to exchange most of your USD for NPR.
• Bring Nepali Rupees with you on the trek/climb for the following items:
  • Tips for your staff.  Budget $10 USD/day of your trip, but make sure the currency is converted to Nepali Rupees before leaving Kathmandu.  This will be divided amongst all of your staff equally.
  • Money for snacks, if desired.  Budget $6 USD in NPR for each day you are trekking/climbing.
  • Optional money for internet, battery charging, and/or showers.  Cost for internet: $3 to $6 in NPR.  Cost for shower: $2 to $4 in NPR.  Cost for battery charge: $1 to $5 in NPR.  
  • Optional money for alcohol. Cost of a beer on a trek: $4 to $7 in NPR.
• Travelers checks are not generally accepted in Nepal.

 

Envelopes (5)

• Envelopes are used for giving tips to staff on the last day of your trip
• Bring 5

 

Packs

Trekking Pack (can double as a summit pack)

• 55-75 Liters
• Ice tool attachment system
• Gear loops helpful, but not necessary
• Side straps (compression straps) that can be used to carry closed-cell foam pads
• Deuter, Black Diamond, Arcteryx, Osprey, Mammut
• Those that are designed for alpinism are a good choice.

 

Duffel Bag (less than $30 in Nepal)

• 60-110 Liter
• Used to store extra gear and clothing at your hotel in Kathmandu.  

 

Waterproofing

• One waterproof pack cover big enough to fit over your large backpack when it is full
• Two contractor bags (stronger than trash bags) to further waterproof your gear inside duffel bags and backpacks.
• Large, sturdy waterproof bags are available for purchase at outdoor shops in Kathmandu.

 

Hydration

 

Camelbak/hydration bladder (optional)

• 2 to 4 Liter capacity
• MSR makes very durable and light water bladders as well as hydration hoses that attach to these bladders (sold separately).
• Will be used on the approach for hydrating and in climbing camp to transport water for cooking
• These will freeze at higher elevations, making it preferable to use Nalgene-type water bottles when temperatures are low.

 

Thermos (less than $15 in Nepal)

• 1 liter or greater capacity
• Weight matters less than durability/seal since these sometimes leak at altitude.
• Will be used to keep liquid from freezing at night, to refill hot water bottles, and to provide you with a steady supply of warm fluids to drink.

 

Nalgene waterbottles (2)

• One liter capacity each
• Two are needed because of the importance of hydration at altitude during our long summit day.  You may also be carrying your thermos for a third liter during summit day.

• Hard plastic water bottles that can hold hot liquids
• Will be used for hydration while in sub-freezing temperatures on the mountain.  Will also be used as hot water bottles to be placed in your sleeping bag at night. 
• Metal is best to be avoided because it can burn you when filled with boiling water.
• Nalgene or similar.

 

Water bottle Jacket/parka (optional)

• One insulative jacket that your 1 liter Nalgene water bottle will slide into in order to maintain the heat of warm liquids.
• The jacket should have an attachment system for your backpack to make it easy to access your liquid.
• Your other water bottle can be insulated in your backpack by wrapping it in extra clothing.
• Outdoor Research water bottle parka

 

Sleeping Gear

 

Sleeping Bag (rent for around $1/day in Nepal)

• 800 fill down bag rated to 0 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Should be an expedition quality bag.

• Baffled Hood and zipper
• Should not be too large, as this will allow cold air to circulate around your body
• Just enough room to accommodate wearing a puffy coat and puffy pants inside the bag if it is especially cold

• Marmot, Northface, Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends
• This item may be rented in Kathmandu, though it will be heavy and bulky for the temperature rating.

 

Compression Stuff Sack (comes with sleeping bag if rented)

• Light weight, waterproof, compressible stuff sacks for sleeping bag
• Outdoor Research, Sea to Summit

 

Closed-cell Foam Sleeping Pad (1 of 2) (less than $10 in Nepal)

• You may desire to use two sleeping pads
• This sleeping pad should be closed-cell foam- not inflatable
• Very cheap to purchase in Kathmandu
• Will be used for sitting-on while in camp, as a wind block for stoves, and as padding while sleeping
• Ridge Rest Pad works well

 

Sleeping Pad (2 of 2) (optional)

• Inflatable sleeping pad
• Bring a patch kit, and know how to use it.
• This pad will be used on top of your closed-cell foam pad to add comfort when sleeping on rocky and uneven surfaces.  It also adds warmth.
• Pro-lite 4, neo-air, X-therm

 

Head

 

Baseball Cap

• Packable, light colored, with a dark under-brim is best, but any will work
• Outdoor Research (OR)

 

Warm hat (purchase for less than $5 in Nepal)

• Wool or synthetic.  
• Be sure it covers ears well, and will not easily blow away.
• Should fit under your climbing helmet comfortably (no tassels or ball on top)

 

Balaclava (optional) (purchase for less than $8 in Nepal)

• Light-weight and Snug fitting
• Should allows you to breath easily
• Fleece or wool
• Good neck coverage
• This will reduce wind-burn and add warmth.  It can be combined with your neck gaiter if you need extra protection and warmth

Silk/Nylon Neck Gaiter (purchase for less than $4 in Nepal)

• A tube of fabric with open ends. 
• Light color
• Will be used as a light-weight balaclava, for keeping dust out of nasal passages, and for sun protection
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 3 dollars

 

Fleece Neck Gaiter (purchase for less than $5 in Nepal)

• Should be a cinch on the top to convert the gaiter to a hat
• Serves as a back-up hat in case you lose yours (important consideration)
• Keeps spin-drift out of your jacket and cold wind off your neck
• Quickly converts to a balaclava when pulled-up over mouth and nose
• Available for less than 5 dollars in Kathmandu

 

Headlamp

• Bright, spot-light setting, and low, economy setting
• 200 lumens or more
• Will be used for route finding early in the morning
• Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut

 

Batteries (3 sets for headlamp, 3 sets for camera)

• Lithium will give you longer lasting performance in cold temperatures.  Be sure they are compatible with your headlamp and camera, and bring three sets for each.

 

Sunglasses

• Full UV protection
• These will be used on the approach and descent, and can serve as a back-up if you lose your glacier goggles on the route

 

Glacier Goggles

• Very dark/reflective lenses.  The darker/more reflective, the better.
• If using Julbo, get Spectron 4 lenses.
• Must have side shields or a wrap-around design
• Keeper cord/croakies
• Nose Shield (Beko) not necessary, but good for those prone to sun-burn
• Julbo (brand)

 

Climbing Helmet

• Lightweight and durable
• Ultra-light foam-bodied helmets easily break when carried by pack animals or when stored inside compressed packs.  If this is your choice, extra care must be taken to insure it isn’t damaged.
• Black Diamond, Petzl, CAMP, Grivel

 

Hands

 

Garden Gloves/work gloves

• Nitrile palm
• Thin gloves that make it easy to manipulate the gates of locking carabiners
• Get the thinnest gloves you can
• Rubbery, non-breathable palm
• Dexterity is more important than warmth
• Will be used as a liner glove, and as a climbing glove in warm conditions
• Atlas (brand)- available at hardware stores

 

Chemical Hand Warmers

• 4 pair

• 10 hr. (6-8 hr. is OK)
• Do not buy warmers with a sticky backing
• Will be used under wrist cuff of garden gloves to warm blood as it flows to the fingers while climbing
• Will be used in boots and in sleeping socks when it is not possible to heat water bottles due to fuel conservation.

 

Liner Gloves (1 pair) (can be purchased for less than $10 in Nepal)

• Windstopper fleece
• Mid-weight
• Black Diamond, Outdoor Research
• Will be used when trekking, or over garden gloves or under mittens when more warmth is needed

 

Ice Climbing/Softshell gloves (optional)

• For those peaks requiring steep climbing (steeper than 50 degrees)
• Dexterity is very important for clipping into fixed lines and handling technical ice tools

 

Two-layer Expedition mittens (Can be purchased for less than $30 in Nepal)

• Outer mitten of a waterproof, breathable fabric (goretex)
• Inner mitten (removable) of synthetic fill
• Outer mitten can be worn over liner gloves, or over inner mittens depending upon need for warmth and dexterity
• Outdoor Research, Mountain Hardware, Marmot
• Can be purchased in Kathmandu for under 30 dollars

 

Feet

 

Expedition Boot

• Although boots are available for rent near basecamps in Nepal, we recommend that you bring your own from home since rentals are often not very high quality or may not fit your feet properly.
• Double Plastic Boot or 6000 meter boot with incorporated gaiter
• Good to temperatures of -10 F
• Inner boot can be removed from a plastic shell, or there is an incorporated gaiter that zips over the upper boot, or both
• Step-in crampon compatible
• As light-weight as possible without sacrificing warmth
• If you would like to use a single boot, and have experience with the product in cold conditions, please speak with your guide(s).  A super-gaiter or overboot can be brought along to add warmth if temperatures are low.
• Scarpa, Asolo, La Sportiva, Koflack.

 

Crampons (Must bring from home.  Rentals in Nepal can be unsafe)

• IMPORTANT: Size your crampon with your boot and/or overboot before departing on your trip.  You may need a larger or smaller sizing bar for your crampon to fit your boots properly.  
• Step-in (the heel locks down) or strap-on.  Must be secure on steep ice.
• Steel, not aluminum
• Anti-bot plates (to keep snow from sticking underneath)
• Front points designed for vertical climbing.  Horizontal or vertical alignment is fine.
• Designed for both glacier travel and vertical ice/mixed climbing
• Please bring at least one spare sizing bar for your brand of crampon.  These may need to be special ordered from the company, so do this ahead of time.  The route includes rock and ice. .
• Crampons MUST BE SHARP.  If yours are dull, get them sharpened before the climb. 
• Black Diamond, Petzl, Grivel.  CAMP do not fit some boot sizes/types.

 

Climbing Shoes

• Shoes that are suitable for rock climbing

 

Trekking shoes –or- light hiking boots –or- approach shoes

• Get a light-weight, flexible boot or shoe- not heavy-duty backpacking boots or mountaineering boots.  The approach to and return trip from the mountain is more than 40 miles.  You want to be comfortable.

• Trail runners are a favorite of many people.  They will not keep you as warm as a light boot, but we will be staying in lodges most evenings, and you can change into a pair of down booties.
• Asolo, Sportiva, Garmont, Scarpa, Salewa, North Face

 

Gaiters

• A durable pair of gaiters that fit over mountaineering boots will keep you warmer and prevent snow from entering your mountaineering boots if we encounter deep snow on the route.
• If your boots are not the warmest models, bring a pair of Supergaiters or Forty-below overboots, and be sure to fit your crampons over these items while they are attached to your boots.

• Outdoor Research, Mountain Hardware

 

Socks (6 pr.)

• Three pairs of mid-weight hiking socks (wool) to be used on approach and descent
• Three pairs of heavy-weight mountaineering socks for use on the mountain
• Three pairs of liner socks (optional) for those who have problems with blisters (thin synthetic)
• Smartwool, Bridgedale

 

Down/synthetic Booties (optional) (purchase for less than $20 in Nepal)

• Should have a light-weight, insulated sole if possible
• For use in lodges and around base camp
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 15 dollars
• If you have double plastic boots, your inner boot can serve this purpose.

 

Upper Body

 

T-shirts (2) (purchase for less than $5 in Nepal)

• Two synthetic t-shirts (running shirts work great).
• A light color is good for reflecting the sun, but not essential.
• As light weight and packable as possible
• One shirt can be used as a towel after showering
• Outdoor Research, Patagonia, Marmot, Adidas

 

Long underwear tops (2)

• One medium weight, one expedition weight
• Light color is good, but not essential
• Synthetic recommended.  Wool often dries slowly after hand washing
• Will be used for layering, as well as for an outer layer while trekking

 

Loose fitting long-sleeve button-up shirt (optional)

• The purpose of this shirt is to protect you from the sun. 
• The secondary purpose is to give you a “town shirt”
• Should be a light color and cool.  Cotton is fine.

 

Fleece or Softshell Jacket (purchase for less than $20 in Nepal)

• To be used as a highly breathable but warm layer when hiking up snow covered terrain on the approach.
• Full zip makes it easy to shed the layer or put it on when temperatures change

 

Light-weight synthetic fill or down jacket/sweater (purchased for less than $50 in Nepal)

• A hood is a big plus, but not essential

• To be used as part of your layering system when temperatures are just above freezing, but don’t warrant using your expedition parka
• May be purchased in Kathmandu for under 100 dollars
• Patagonia, Outdoor Research, Rab

 

Down Vest (optional)

• Used as an additional layer for those who get cold easily
• Best if can compress into a small stuff sack
• Available in Kathmandu for less than 60 dollars

 

Expedition Down Parka (purchase for less than $150 in Nepal)

• Should be a fully baffled, down filled parka with a hood
• 650 fill down is OK.  800 fill is better.
• Good to 0 degrees F when combined with other layers
• Outdoor Research, Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardware, Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering

 

Waterproof/breathable Jacket

• Pac-lite Gore-tex, Gore-tex, e-vent, or another light-weight waterproof/breathable fabric
• Chest pocket is nice to have so you have pocket access while wearing your pack or harness.
• Choose light weight over heavy (often more expensive) alternatives
• Be sure the jacket is roomy enough to accommodate several layers underneath
• If the jacket is not new, use Nikwax or a similar product to renew the water proofing.
• This jacket will be used to shed snow, wind, and light rain.  In heavy rain at lower elevations, we use umbrellas and ponchos (these jackets will wet-out).
• Mountain Hardware, North Face, Outdoor Research, Helly Hensen, Millet, Mammut, Arcteryx, Rab

 

Poncho

• Small, light, and cheap.  If the poncho is a “one time use” product, bring two.
• Plastic/PVC/silicone impregnated nylon
• Do not bring heavy rubber ponchos
• These are difficult to find in Nepal, so bring these from home.  When it rains, it pours.

 

Umbrella (recommended- purchase for less than $18 in Nepal)

• This may not get style points in drizzly places like Seattle, but in places where rain means drops the size of ping-pong balls, this is the only thing other than a roof that will keep you dry.
• If you bring one from the States, be sure it is durable.  This matters more than weight or compactness.

 

Lower Body

 

Underwear (2 to 4 pr.)

• Some men (and women too) opt not to wear underwear.  Bring at least one pair for bathing in natural water sources and for times of gastro-intestinal distress.
• Synthetic, fast drying, with few seams to prevent chafing.
• Women may want to bring more
• Will be hand washed

 

Long John Bottoms (2)

• One pair medium weight
• One pair expedition/heavy weight
• Synthetic recommended.  Wool often dries slowly after hand washing.

 

Shorts/swim suite

• Should be able to be used for hiking and bathing
• Light weight, packable
• Synthetic and fast drying
• Running shorts and men's bathing suites work well. 
• Women should not bring two-piece suites due to cultural norms.

 

Hiking Pants (purchase for less than $20 in Nepal)

• Light weight and packable
• Cargo pocket with a zipper is a plus
• Nylon canvass or other synthetic material
• Mountain Hardware, Outdoor Research, Millet, Arcteryx

 

Softshell Pants

• Light to medium weight (winter ski pant not recommended because they are heavy and too warm for sunny days)
• Will serve as an extra pair of hiking pants for higher elevations
• Can be combined with long-johns to control warmth
• Patagonia, OR, Mountain Hardwear, Mammut, Arcteryx

 

Fleece Pants

• Used for sleeping, or for adding an extra layer under overpants on particularly cold climbing days

 

Synthetic Fill/Down Filled Pants (optional- can purchase for less than $65 in Nepal)

• Full side zip
• Will be worn at camps and on the climb if we need to wait for parties to clear the fixed lines
• Synthetic fill works well if the pants get wet from melting snow
• Mountain Hardwear, Feathered Friends, Outdoor Research

 

Overpants

• Goretex, e-vent, or another waterproof, breathable fabric
• Reinforced lower leg to protect against crampon puncture
• Side zips
• At least one pocket is helpful for storing camera, sun screen, or snacks
• Mountain Hardwear, Outdoor Research, Arcteryx, Patagonia

 

Hardwear

 

Climbing Rope

• Please bring a 30 to 60 meter lead climbing rope.  The diameter should be between 9mm and 10.5mm.

 

Cordalette

• A cordallette is a 20 ft. piece of 7mm nylon cord tied into a loop.
• Sterling is the best brand of cord for this

 

Harness

• Alpine-style harness is best, but rock climbing harnesses will work
• Should have gear loops
• The harness doesn’t need much padding, since this will be provided by your warm clothing. 
• Singing Rock Flake Harness, Black Diamond Alpine Bod

 

Jumar (ascender) (1) (rent for less than $2/day in Nepal)

• We recommend you rent this near base camp in Nepal.  This way you will not need to carry the device on approach or during your return from the mountain.
• The ascender is for your dominant hand.  For most of us that is a right-handed ascender.

• The ascender should have a grip large enough to be used while wearing bulky gloves or mittens
• A thumb release is preferable to releases that must be operated by other digits since thumb releases work when wearing mittens.
• Petzl Ascension Ascender

 

Carabiners

 

Small locking carabiners (2)

• You need two of these

• These carabiners will be used to secure you to fixed-lines by attaching to jumars (ascenders), prussics, or by “crab-clawing” you onto a tensioned line.
• Madrock’s ultra-tech twist lock is a good choice

 

Large Pear-shaped, Twist-Lock, Key Nosed, Carabiners (HMS) (5)

• You need four of these
• One of these carabiners will be used to attach you to the climbing rope.  One will be used to attach your prissik to the rope for glacier travel.  The third and fourth will be used in combination with your belay device.  And the fifth will be used for building anchors.
• Black Diamond Rocklock Twist-lock

 

Wire gate carabiners (4 total)

• You need one wiregate to be used with your jummar as a safety.
• You need one wire-gate carabiner to attach a keeper-cord to your ice axe so you can’t accidentally drop it 
• One wiregate will be used to hold your prussics on your harness in the event they are needed for a rescue or rappel.
• One wire-gate will be used for your foot-loop
• Black Diamond, Metolius, Camp

 

Black Diamond Guide ATC Belay Device or Petzl Reverso Belay Device

• This belay device can be used to belay, rappel, ascend, and belay from the top of a climbing pitch.  This device works where figure-8 rappel devices do not.

 

Personal Anchor System (PAS)

• Interconnected loops- not a daisy-chain
• Will be used to anchor yourself and to attach to fixed-lines
• Will also be used to extend rappels
• Metolius, Blue Water, Black Diamond

 

Double-length Runner (48 in., 120cm)

• Nylon is better than spectra or dynema/dynex for holding-up to crampon abuse
• Will be used to create a foot-loop if you need to prusik up a difficult section, or for crevasse rescue systems
• May be used to create a chest harness for you when rappelling with a backpack.
• Black Diamond Nylon Runner

 

Ice-Axe leash

• This leash does not go on your wrist, since this makes it difficult to switch hands with the axe.  Rather it attaches to your harness using a carabiner.
• You can buy fabricated leashes at the store or online, or you can make your own from a piece of 6ft. by 6mm nylon cord.

 

Nylon Cord Prussik loops, Sterling brand (2)

• Prussik loops are made by tying 5 ft. of 5mm nylon cord into a loop using a double-fisherman’s knot.  Sterling makes the best nylon cord for friction hitches because the cord does not kink like many other brands.

• Will be used to back-up rappels on slippery and thin lines, and to perform crevasse rescue in the unlikely event of a crevasse fall.

 

Ice Axe (1)  (Can rent in Nepal for less than $5/day)

• We recommend you rent this at basecamp in Nepal, since it is cheap and you will not need to carry this heavy item up to basecamp and back.
• Should be an adze tool, not a hammer, since we may need to cut hard snow/ice to create tent platforms and harvest snow for water
• A bent or straight shaft is fine
• Hybrid tools such as the Black Diamond Venom or CAMP’s Alp Axe Special work well on varied terrain

 

Technical Ice Tools (optional)

• If you have technical ice tools for climbing steep ice please bring them.  If you bring these you do not need to bring an ice axe.
• Please also bring leashes to attach the ice tools to your harness so they are not dropped on other climbers below.

 

Crampons

(please see the section titled “Feet” above)

 

Multi-tool (Can be purchased for less than $15 in Nepal)

• Simple, small, and durable
• Pliers, a knife blade, and screw-drivers are handy
• The knife will be used for food prep and cutting cord, the pliers for cooking, and the screw-driver for fixing crampons and trekking poles

 

Trekking Poles (Can be purchased for less than $40 in Nepal)

• These are knee saving, and excellent for the approach
• Snow baskets are great since we may be traveling over snow-covered passes as part of our acclimatization.
• Black Diamond Expedition Ski Pole

 

Personal medical kit and Self-Care

 

You will be able to purchase all of the following items in Kathmandu for a price similar to what you would pay in the States.  In the case of medications, they are significantly cheaper in Nepal.

 

Eyeglass case or similar hard case

• This is used to store your medications and prevent pills from being crushed after they are packed tight in your pack

 

Plastic Bags

• 4, one gallon bags
• 4, one quart bags
• Will be used for organizing and waterproofing

 

Medications/pills

• Vitamin supplement (30)
• Iron supplement (30)
• Ciprofloaxin (cipro)  500 mg 2/day for 3 days (12)
• Azithromyocin 500mg 1 x day/3 days (10)
• Cefixime/cefy-O. For UTIs, strep throat, ear infect., bronchitis. 400mg 1/day (10)
• Flagyl/Tinvista (metronidazol) 3 x day for 7 days (12)
• Dromamine/dimenhydrinate  1 every 4 hrs. (12)
• Tylenol/acetaminophen (20)
• Ibuprofin/Advil/NSAID (20)
• Benedryl/diphenhydramine (10)
• Antacids (8)
• Cranberry capsules (for women)
• Monostat (for women)
• Dexamethazone/Decadron (prescription) 4mg/6 hrs. until symptoms are gone
• Diamox/Acetazolomide (20) –this is a sulfa-based drug and interacts with aspirin and many sedatives.
• Personal medications in a 40 day supply (40 days to account for flight time and any unforeseen extensions)
• WARNING:  If you generally take sleeping pills/sedatives, please consult your doctor.  Some of these medications interact dangerously with medications such as acetazolomide which are used to help speed the process of acclimatization, and some may slow acclimatization even in the absence of other medications.

 

Insect Repellent/Deet

• At least 50% deet.  Used for prevention of bed bugs

 

Oral Electrolytes (4 packets)

• Electrolyte powder available from pharmacies in Kathmandu

 

Iodine (30 gram bottle)

• An eye-drop bottle of iodine.  Bring bleach if you are allergic to iodine/shellfish.
• Used for wound care and water purification.

 

Eye care

• If you wear contacts, we strongly suggest you bring glasses for your trek/climb.  Previous participants have had trouble with freezing and dust.
• Bring contacts, cleaning solution, or eye glasses as needed

 

Blister kit

• Duct tape (small roll)
• Second Skin (one package)
• Mole skin (one package)
• Band aids (a variety of sizes)
• Antibiotic ointment (one tube)
• Cloth tape (one roll)
• Trauma shears for cutting tape
• Antiseptic wipes

 

Ace wrap/brace

• If you have a history of ankle or knee pain- even if it is not current- please bring a brace
• Ace wraps are an excellent back-up in case anything unpredicted happens.

 

Oral thermometer

• This can help determine if you have a bacterial infection and its severity

 

Toe nail clippers

 

Tweezers

 

Camp soap/liquid soap/shampoo (2)

• Pack two, 3oz bottles
• The bottles should have a screw-off cap, not a button that levers-up one side of the cap because these leak easily with changing pressure and elevation
• Will be used for cleaning clothes, body, and hands

 

Bar of soap (1)

• This will be used for cleaning clothes and your body.
• If you can find a bar-soap laundry detergent (common in Mexican grocery stores), bring that along with a bar of soap for your body.

 

Sunscreen

• A 10 oz bottle is enough for the amount of skin that will be exposed.
• You can find this in Kathmandu
• If you prefer a particular brand/type, bring it. 
• Think high elevation sun for 10 hours/day . . . and snow glare.
• Zinc oxide sticks are available in Kathmandu as well.

 

Lip balm (2)

• Should have sun protection

• You can find this in Kathmandu.  Bring your own if you like a particular brand.

 

Tooth brush and Paste

 

Feminine hygiene supplies

• Bring supplies for the month-plus long trip, plus a little extra (works great for wound care too).
• If you choose to bring disposable supplies, tin foil works well to wrap-up the waste and then place it in a plastic bag.  You will probably be packing this back to Kathmandu before it can be disposed of.  Just remember to bring tin foil and extra zip-locks.
• If you use a reusable device like a diva-cup, be sure you are able to wash your hands and supplies with filtered, boiled water.  It can be a little more time intensive, but easy to do with the resources available at lodges along the route.

 

Personal Grooming Supplies

• Razer(s)
• Hair-brush etc.

 

Water Filter (recommended)

• Gravity feed water filters, such as those sold by MSR, Katadyn, and Platipus, are excellent ways to filter water so you do not need to rely on boiled water from lodges which requires burning local wood/trees.  The bags of these filters can also be used to carry water like a CamelBak.
• Light pens will work only when water is clear with no "floaties".  If there are floaties, the UV may not penetrate and kill the microbes.
• Pump filters will also work.

 

Toilet Paper (2 rolls)

• Easy to find in Nepal

 

Lighter

• An extra lighter or box of matches for burning toilet paper if you have to go while on the trail.  To be placed in a plastic bag with a roll of TP and hand sanitizer.

 

Hand sanitizer (2 bottles)

• To be used before every meal, and after every bathroom stop.

 

Brown lunch bags (2)

• For packing-out used TP and burning in wood stoves at lodges (not available in Kathmandu)

 

Gallon Zip-lock bags (4)

• For random waterproofing and for packing out used TP (first put TP in the brown lunch bag, then in the plastic bag)

 

Duffel Bag locks/keys (2)

• We can purchase these in Kathmandu. 
• You will want these to keep your gear safe while it is being stored in Base Camp.

 

Electronics (optional)

 

These are optional items that others have found useful.

International plug adapter kit.

• Voltage: 220-240 Volts (U.S./Canada are 110-120 Volts)
• Primary Socket Types: Indian, Europlug
• 110-120V electronics: Plug adapter + step-down transformer

 

I-pod

• Bring a battery charging pack or a solar charger

 

Watch with alarm

 

Digital Camera

• Some people bring two: a larger model with a good zoom for the approach, and a smaller one for on the mountain
• When climbing, your camera will need to be compact and fit in an inside pocket of your coat or it will be too cold to operate
• It should have a strap for your wrist and/or neck so you do not drop it on parties below you
• Lithium batteries last longer in cold weather, but even lithiums don’t last as long as they do in warmer climates at lower elevation

 

Digital Camera Batteries

• Because there is no electricity at base camp, you will want to have a stash of extra camera batteries that suits your hunger for photography
• With my compact Panasonic Lumix, I found four (4) lithium batteries to be sufficient for the entirety of my time away from outlets

 

Extra Camera Memory Card

• You can buy this in Kathmandu for about the same as you get for it in the States.  Don’t buy non-name-brand.  These are cheap knock-offs that will malfunction quickly.

 

Thumb Drive/USB stick

• A high capacity USB stick will allow you to trade photos with your friends at the internet shop after the expedition has finished. 
• You can also use the stick to print photos in Kathmandu for your local guides, porters, and cooks who would otherwise have no photos of their trip with you.
• The USB can serve as a back-up in the event that your camera’s memory card is corrupted (this happens often with the amount of deleting and re-shooting that takes place)

 

Laptop Computer

• A laptop may serve you well in Kathmandu, but it can easily be broken en route to basecamp.  It will also undergo temperature fluctuations that can cause hard drive problems.  We recommend you store your laptop in Kathmandu if you bring one.
• Most hotels in Kathmandu, and several tea houses along our approach, provide wireless internet at no extra charge.  However, the service is often very slow.

 

Light socket plug adaptor

• An adaptor that turns a light socket into a plug is advantageous for giving you the ability to charge your camera batteries in your room at tea houses during the approach .
• Often there are only a few outlets in the tea houses we stay at, and these are crowded with the chargers of other guests.
• If you don’t find one in the States, you can purchase an adaptor in Nepal for about 80 cents.  These are prone to failure, so it might be prudent to buy two (they’re small).

 

Snacks (optional)

 

These might seem like an arbitrary addition, but due to the affects of high altitude, exertion, a new diet, and intestinal illness, these can be a saving grace.  When selecting foods, keep this in mind:  You will be somewhat dehydrated, and at altitude your body has difficulty digesting fat and fiber.  Citrus tasting, salty, and sweet foods are high on the list of cravings- as are crunchy foods for reasons we haven’t quite figured out.

Plastic Bags

• Please repackage your snacks in bags that are unlikely to result in spilled food.

 

Sports drink powders

• Enough for 10 liters

• Isotonic beverage containing electrolytes and sugars
• Now is not the time to cut the sugar out of your drink.  You’ll need it.  Often it’s the only thing your body can digest at high altitude.
• Poweraid powder, Gaiteraid powder

 

Protein

• Getting enough digestible protein into you is tough.  Even tougher for vegetarians. It’s helpful if you are able to eat eggs and dairy products.  The diet of the Sherpa people is built upon the backbone of eggs and dairy, and you will even find butter in their tea.
• For non-vegetarians, I recommend bringing Beef jerky (5 bags)
• Eggs, cheese, and other dairy will be in daily meals if requested
• For vegans, lentils are in no short supply.  But other sources of vegetable protein are scarce.  You will want to bring your own stash if you have a favorite (nut butters for instance).
• If you are not strictly vegetarian, and are willing to eat gummy bears, you have found a decent source of protein that you will likely crave.  Gelatin is high in the essential amino acids (and delicious in bear form).
• Peanut, almond, cashew, sunflower seed butters

 

Energy Bars (1 per day of your trip)

• Choose a bar that you think you could eat while you are on mile fifteen of a marathon.  Bars that are oily or fibrous tend to be difficult for the body to handle at altitude.

 

We will provide all meals.  However, we don’t have all your favorite foods on hand.  To help you get the nutrition you crave, we suggest you bring some of your favorites with you.  Below are foods not available in Kathmandu that past expedition members have craved.  I would bring a total of 1/5 of a pound per day of the trip:

• Rice-noodle based stir-fry and soup dishes- like Taste of Thai.

• Unsulfated dry mangoes
• Salted Nuts
• Tamari almonds
• Beef Jerky
• Whole-wheat pretzels
• Sour patch kids
• Gummy bears
• Black licorice
• Unsulfated dried figs, peaches, pears, apricots
• Chocolate covered expresso beans
• Bagel chips
• Dehydrated vegetables
• Vegetable chips
• Home-made cookies
• Home-made granoloa bars
• Organic soup mix/miso soup
• Baked pita chips
• Dried Edemame
• Cake mix in a box
• Brownie mix in a box
• Jello cheese cake mix
• Muslei cereal
• Sundried tomatoes
• Pine nuts
• Cous cous
• Quinoa

Foods available for purchase in Kathmandu:

• Dark and milk chocolate bars
• Candy bars
• Pringles chips
• Flavored crackers (salty crackers are usually craved more than sweet varieties)
• Cookies/sweet crackers
• Bread (white bread is good to have for those with digestive problems)
• Trail mix with dried fruit and coconut
• Hot chocolate
• Flavored Juice drinks
• Glucose drink powder
• Ramen noodles (called Rara or Wai Wai noodles in Nepal)
• Dried mangos & other fruit
• Local-style granola bars
• Imported muesli bars

 

 

 

REQUIRED EXPERIENCE

 

• Prior multi-day backpacking experience
• Prior mountaineering experience on a snow or glacier covered peak requiring the use of crampons and an ice axe
• Experience above 10,000 ft.
• A high level of aerobic fitness
• The ability to carry a 45 lb pack up and down 5,000 ft. of elevation in a single day

 

DESIREABLE EXPERIENCE

 

• Previous experience on a rope-team on a glaciated peak
• Experience above 14,000 ft.
• Winter camping experience
• Experience climbing slopes steeper than 50 degrees
• Experience rapelling/abseiling
• Multi-pitch rock or ice climbing experience
• Medical training, such as Wilderness First Aid or First Responder

 

PHYSICAL TRAINING

 

This climb is of low technical difficulty relative to other peaks in Nepal.  However, it is over 20,000 ft., and therefore requires considerable stamina.  For North American climbers, the climb is more physically demanding than summiting and returning from Mt. Rainier via the Disappointment Cleaver route in two days (due to the effects of altitude).  It is similar in its steepness, with one ice cliff that is ascended via a fixed line near the summit.

The best training for such a climb is hill-running for more than an hour on steep trails (walk if it becomes too steep), hiking up-hill with a 30 pound pack on slopes steeper than 20 degrees for more than two-hours at a time (like a blue ski run), and general mountaineering at elevations above 3,500m (11,482 ft.).  Ideally, participants will have the ability to maintain a three-mile-per-hour/5 kilometer-per-hour pace while walking up-hill with a 30 pound pack on 15 degree slopes for four hours with few breaks (at sea level).  At higher elevations, the respiratory rate and heart rate will be comparably elevated despite maintaining walking speeds of less than 1 mile per hour/1.6 kilometers per hour.  Your arms will be used very little on this climb, so it is important to focus on leg strength and stamina.  Summit day is often more than 10 hours of travel at high elevation.  This will feel like maintaining a light jog uphill for 6 hours, followed by a much easier 4 hour descent.  The best fitness plans are those that improve aerobic fitness and leg strength while occassionally simulating mountaineering activities by incorporating snow travel, loaded packs, and long hours of travel at moderate intensity.

 

 

TRAVEL, EVACUATION, AND TRIP CANCELLATION INSURANCE

 

We strongly recommend that you purchase travel, evacuation, and trip cancellation insurance.  There are cirumstances beyond the control of Nepal Alpine Guides that may affect your travel, such as flight cancellations, lost baggage, medical emergencies, political instability, or natural disaster to name a few.  Unfortunately, we are generally not able to issue a refund in these circumstances, and your best means of obtaining a refund is through an insurance policy.  Because our participants come from all over the world, we cannot recommend a specific policy that will suit the needs of all of our clientele.  We recommend that you search on-line to find a policy that provides the coverage you are looking for.  Global Rescue, including their travel insurance plans, have worked well for many previous trip participants.  If you are a member of a nationally recognized alpine club, discounted travel and evacuation insurance is often available to members. 

 

FOOD & WATER

 

We do not recommend that you eat uncooked vegetables or fruit that has not been peeled.  Doing so may result in food-borne illness.  Because water can contain viruses which can pass through any filter, we recommend that you both filter and treat your water with a UV light pen.  Bottled water is fine as long as the bottle's seal was intact before opening.  Whenever possible, we encourage our participants to filter and treat their own water from local taps.  This helps protect forests which are cut for firewood to boil water consumed by tourists.  We do not recommend that you drink chaang or other alcoholic beverages that are low percentage alcohol and have not been boiled since these may result in illness.  Raksi, a high percentage rice alcohol, and toongba, a fermented millet drink made with boiled water, are usually fine.

 

Food in Kathmandu is varied.  It is possible to eat Italian, Mexican, Thai, Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Mediteranian, as well as various Nepali cuisines that are specialties of different regions and ethnic groups.  Prices range from $3 USD for budget meals to $40 USD for high-end restaurants- many of which include live dance shows.

 

Food on treks and climbs is either prepared by a cook at a lodge or hotel along the trekking route, or by a basecamp chef.  The exception to this rule is if you are doing a technical climb with advanced camps, in which case you will be responsible for preparing your own simple meals when you are above basecamp.  The meals prepared at trekking lodges are more varied than you might imagine.  They include noodle dishes, soups, curry, chapatis (flat bread), eggs, potato dishes, egg rolls, momos (Tibetan stuffed dumplings), Tibetan fried bread, buckwheat porridge, pizza, muesli, and the ever-present daal bhat (lentils and rice with vegetable curry).  Drinks include coffee, black tea, milk tea, hot chocolate, ginger tea, lemon tea, masala tea, local alcohol, bottled soda and beer, and occassionally the famous Tibetan tea or "butter tea".  In larger villages you may also find apple pie, cake, yak steak, chicken sizzler, and even cheese fondue.  Meals are much more expensive as you ascend in elevation due to the cost of transporting goods on livestock or the backs of human porters.  Your food budget includes two breakfast items with tea, one lunch item with tea, one dinner item plus a soup and tea, plus one liter of boiled hot water to take with you to bed.  If you would like to purchase additional food, drinks, alcohol, etc this should come from your personal spending money.  Feel free to ask your guide if a paricular item is within the budget.  Expect to spend between $5 USD and $9 USD for a bottled beer or soft drink along a trekking route (much cheaper in Kathmandu).  Snacks, such as candy bars, cookies, and chips are not included in the trip cost.  If you would like to purchase snacks, you must do so with your own money.  We recommend a daily snack budget of $8 USD.  This is usually more than enough, especially if you have brought some of your favorite snacks with you from home or from Kathmandu.  

 

If you are staying at a climbing basecamp with us, our basecamp chef will prepare meals for you each day.  These meals are often similar to those served at trekking lodges, though our chefs purchase local ingredients from farmers along the route, so the food is very fresh and most find it more flavorful than the options available at lodges.  We also try to make simple foods for the first day or two at basecamp, such as soups, noodle dishes, and sandwiches, to help your digestive system adjust to the altitude.  After completing a climb you may be treated to specialty items like fried wontons or cheese and sausage loaded french fries.

If you are staying in the homes of local people, such as is the case on our Himalayan Alpine Climbing Course, then you will have fewer food options to choose from on these days. The food will be prepared by whoever is available to cook in the household- this could be Grandpa, Mom, Dad, a sister, or brother.  Food tends to be very good, as it often comes from a garden behind the house or from a local farm. 

TRAVELER'S DIARRHEA

 

What are the causes?

 

Traveler’s diarrhea is a “catch-all” that refers to illness that is spread by bacteria, protozoa, and viruses.  Contaminated food and water are the most obvious sources.  Wind-blown dust contaminated with human or animal feces is another source.  Some bacteria and viruses can pass to others by touching surfaces or sharing bedding or clothing.  Exposure to high elevation alone can cause nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea- even when there is no microbial infection.

 

Prevention

 

Only consume water that has been filtered and treated with a UV pen, or boiled.  Other methods are unlikely to rid the water of all contaminants such as viruses.  Bottled beverages are safe to drink if the seal is not broken, but create plastic waste that is difficult to dispose of responsibly in Nepal.  Only consume foods that have been thoroughly cooked.  Fresh vegetables and fruits often harbor bacteria.  If you would like to eat fresh vegetables/fruit, check to see if they have been treated in an iodine/water solution.  You may also peel fruit and veg to reduce the likelihood of infection.  Wash hands frequently with soap and water.  Use hand sanitizer if hand washing is not possible.  Make sure to bring two rolls of toilet paper with you from Kathmandu (or from home), and don't get the cheap stuff that shreds easily.  You don't want to be worrying about the thickness of your toilet paper if you have diarrhea.  Avoid eating an abundance of sweet or sugary food.  Bacteria love it.  Bring extra pairs of underwear.  You never know what could happen if things get interesting “down there”.  Women should bring two spare pairs of cotton underwear (breathable) and medication for yeast infections and UTIs.  Care for yourself by washing- even when it's cold outside- and maintain hydration at high elevation.

 

Treatment Strategy

 

For those who have traveled previously in the developing world, this is a word of caution.  Traveler’s diarrhea in Nepal is not to be underestimated.  Dehydration is dangerous, especially at altitude when maintaining proper hydration without an infection is already difficult.  Because of our remote setting in Nepal, we do not recommend letting a sickness run its course without using medication.  Medication is most effective if it is used as soon as symptoms present themselves.  If you wait, you may no longer be able to keep down liquid, and this means you will also not be able to keep down medications.  This can require evacuation lasting many days, require the help of other expedition members, and result in a change of itinerary for your group.  Needless to say, such a situation can create tension between trekking and expedition members.  If you are feeling ill, please inform your guide as soon as possible and take action to treat a possible infection.

 

Having said this, it is not uncommon for first-time visitors to Nepal to become ill during an extended trip, and when dealt with swiftly and effectively sickness is short-lived and requires little more than a few hours of rest.

 

Prophylactics (preventative medications)

 

Bismuth subsalicylate  (Pepto-Bismol)

Many travel doctors recommend taking two, 262-mg tablets of Pepto four times a day with food.  This has been shown to reduce the likelihood of bacterial infection by as much as 42%.  However, tell your doctor if you will be using Diamox (acetazolamide) to treat altitude sickness, since combining these two medications may prevent the uptake of potassium.  You may wish to stop using Pepto at least a day before taking Diamox.

 

Although using antibiotics as a prophylactic (preventatively) has been shown to be up to 95% effective against bacterial infection, it is not recommended to use antibiotics in this way due to the possibility of developing bacterial resistance. Antibiotics also increase sensitivity to sunlight, which is severe at altitude.

 

No other prophylactics have been shown to have a significant affect on traveler’s diarrhea.  If you would like to use other therapies or medications- even herbal medications- make sure to consult your doctor first.  Some herbal supplements can cause problems at altitude. 

 

Treatment (After the first loose stool)

 

Take an adult dose of loperamide (brand name Imodium) & an antibiotic such as Ciprofloaxin “Cipro” or Azithromycin.  In the United States, obtaining antibiotics requires a prescription.  Many participants purchase medications in Nepal where they are cheaper, but doing so also presents some risks since you may be allergic to these medications or they interact with other medication that you are taking.  A doctor will give you the best information on this matter.

 

Maintain hydration with electrolytes and warm liquids, and eliminate caffeine, animal fats, and dairy from your diet.  Soup, plain noodles, rice, and salty crackers are good choices.

 

Treatment for Intense bowel cramping, foul smelling gas, diarrhea/nausea

 

Take an adult dose of Loperamide (brand name Imodium) & begin a course of an antibiotic such as Ciprofloaxin “Cipro” or Azithromycin.  Also begin a course of metronidazole or tinidazole (brand name “Flagyl”) or another antimicrobial that targets protozoa such as Giardia.  Antibiotics alone will not treat protozoa infections, and if left untreated, these infections are some of the most severe.  Symptoms often reemerge after periods of dormancy.

 

Maintain hydration with electrolytes and warm liquids, and eliminate caffeine, animal fats, and dairy from your diet.  Soup, plain noodles, rice, and salty crackers are good choices.

 

Treatment of severe nausea or vomiting, diarrhea, bowel cramping

 

Immediately take an anti-nausea medication, such as Meclizine.  Dramamine is a common motion sickness medication that may be substituted, but is not as effective.  Wait 20 minutes for the medication to take affect, then follow the directions immediately above, including taking Loperamide, Cipro, and Flagyl. 

 

Treatment for prolonged vomiting, diarrhea, inability to keep-down food

 

Take nothing.  No food, no water, no medication.  The goal is not to trigger any more vomiting or diarrhea, since this will result in further dehydration.  Wait at least two hours after the last episode of diarrhea/vomiting, and then carefully sip plain water (no electrolytes), a few tablespoons at a time.  After ¼ of a liter of water has been kept down, take anti-nausea medication.  Continue to rehydrate with small sips of water, changing to an electrolyte solution after ½ of a liter has been drunk.  Finally, after a liter of fluid has been consumed, take Luperimide.  Eat a cracker or other plain food in nibbles to determine if taking antibiotics will be possible.  If the cracker stays down, begin a course of antibiotics.  If this medication stays down, wait 20 minutes and begin a course of Flagyl.  Take another anti-nausea tablet according to the directions of the medication (usually once every 4 hrs.).  Continue to rehydrate slowly with electrolyte beverage.  Only after you have drunk at least one liter of water and one liter of electrolyte beverage should you attempt to eat anything.  Often it is best to sleep on an empty stomach before attempting food.  Always hydrate before taking food or medication.  Continue to rehydrate with electrolytes and eat simple foods while finishing the course of your medications.

 

For more information:

David J. Diemert (2006). Prevention and Self-treatment of Traveler’s Diarrhea.  Clinical Microbial Reviews. July; 19(3): 583–594.  Online:  http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1539099/

 

LODGING

 

Most trekking routes and climbing approaches pass through villages where people live for some or all of the year.  Many villagers have built additions onto their homes for tourists to use as lodges.  Others have built separate buildings that are used exclusively by tourists.  Whatever the arrangement, the lodging experience is generally similar.  Rooms are constructed of plywood, have a door with a lock, and contain two separate beds, complete with mattresses, pillows, and sometimes blankets.  Generally you will use your sleeping bag to ensure you stay warm enough at night.  Most lodges have an outhouse containing a squat toilet outside, while some along major trekking routes, like the Everest Base Camp Trek, have Western-style toilets in shared bathrooms within the lodge.  Gas and solar-heated showers are available in larger villages for an additional charge (usually between $4 and $8 USD).  Meals are served in a separate dining room with a wood-stove at its center.  This is usually the only heat available outside the cooking fire in the kitchen.  Dining rooms have benches and tables, and in some wealthier villages there may even be televisions that frequently play Bollywood musicals.

 

If you are on a homestay trek or another trip that contains a homestay, then the lodging experience is quite different.  On these trips you will be staying in peoples' homes rather than in lodges.  If you are staying in a Sherpa home, then you will sleep on benches that double as beds around the perimeter of a multi-purpose room, just as the family does.  There will be no menu, since you will eat whatever meal the family is preparing that day.  You may participate in cooking, or may even help pick vegetables from the garden or milk a cow in order to help with meal preparation.  Toilets are usually stilted pit-toilets outside the home.  On our homestay treks we strive to help you understand local culture by encouraging active participation in daily life.

 

For climbing trips, we provide spacious and sturdy basecamp tents.  These are similar models to the Northface Bastion 4.  We also provide a cooktent, and for larger group sizes, an additional dining tent.  If you are doing a technical peak requiring advanced camps above base camp, you may be asked to provide your own light-weight climbing tent to use at higher camps.  This allows us to move between two or more established camps in order to acclimatize.

 

BATHROOMS

 

Most bathrooms in Nepal contain a squat toilet, a pitcher, soap, a basin of water, and sometimes an additional hand washing area either inside or outside the toilet area.  Local custom is to use the toilet, wipe with the LEFT hand, use the RIGHT hand to handle the pitcher in order to wash your left hand over the toilet (not over the water basin), flush the toilet by dumping a few pitchers full of water into the toilet, then open the toilet door with your right hand and complete washing your hands at the hand washing station.  Locals always keep the finger nails of their wiping fingers trimmed very short.  Many long-time travelers in Asia and North Africa prefer this method, but we understand that most first-time travelers to Nepal from Western countries will not want to adopt the local method.  If you prefer not to use your hand to wipe, then be sure to carry toilet paper with you at all times (you will not find it in public restrooms) and be prepared to pack the used TP out in a paper bag that is inside a sealed plastic bag if you are not certain that local plumbing will handle a wad of TP.  You can then burn the paper bag full of used TP in a fire-safe location- such as inside the wood-burning stove of a trekking lodge.  Do not burn the bag in a cooking fire.  This would be like someone burning used TP on your gas stove before you were about to fry eggs in the morning.  If you choose to burn the bag outside, then do so in a talus field or another location where you are one-hundred percent certain there is no fire hazard.  We have seen several wildfires caused by attempts to burn trash, and these sometimes result in disaster for local people who lose homes, crops, or even loved-ones in the resulting blaze.  

 

TREKKING DIFFICULTY

 

How difficult is trekking in Nepal?  First, let me state the obvious by saying that difficulty is subjective, and when it comes to trekking, difficulty will depend upon your fitness, health, experience in the particular terrain, weather at the time of your trek, expectations, and genetic factors such as rate of acclimatization.  Now let me do my best to answer the question.

 

If your trek is located in the southern part of Nepal, called the Terai, then your elevation will only be a few hundred feet above sea level.  Trekkers in this region will encounter hills which are a few hundred feet high, mud, occassionally dense forest, and possibly river crossings.  The greatest challenges will be sun, heat, humidity, and in monsoon season (June-August) torrential rain.  Although elevation gain and loss is minimal in this region, many trekkers feel tired due to the heat.

 

If portions of your trek are located between 2,000 ft. and 10,000 ft. in elevation, then you are trekking in an area known as the "Middle Hills".  This area is characterized by deep river gorges that separate steep ridges.  This is one of the most agriculturally diverse regions of Nepal due to the variety of elevations and the moderate climate.  As a result, the Middle Hills are populated with many subsistence farming communities of various ethnic and caste groups, making cultural trekking very popular.  The trekking here requires good leg strength due to elevation gain and loss as trails work their way along ridges, down to river valleys, and back up to ridges and over passes.  It would not be uncommon to gain three-thousand feet, lose two-thousand feet, and gain another three-thousand feet before reaching the next village where you would stay for the night.  Although the effects of high elevation are minimal at these moderate elevations, many trekkers find trekking in these region physically challenging due to the undulating topography.

 

If portions of your trek are between 10,000 ft. and 18,000 ft., then you are trekking in the Mountain Zone.  Contrary to what you might think, trekking in this zone is often less demanding on your leg muscles than trekking in the Middle Hills.  This is because ancient glaciers carved wide valleys that permit trails to more gradually ascend the terrain than at lower elevations.  There are places where trails ascend out of a glacial valley, over a pass, and drop into another glacial valley, and these are exceptions to the rule.  Although leg strength may not be taxed as much as trekking through the Middle Hills, the Mountain Zone will certainly require aerobic stamina.  Your heart-rate and respiratory-rate while trekking will be elevated to equal that of a light jog or even a run at especially high elevations.  For this reason it is very important to have good cardiac and respiratory health.

 

A characteristic of Nepal's mountain topography that may surprise European and North American trekkers is the elevation of treeline and snowline.  Treeline is frequently above 14,000 ft., while permanent snowline is above16,400 ft. Grasslands extend as high as 18,000 ft.  This is a result of Nepal's latitude, which is similar to that of Florida or Egypt. The result is a high elevation landscape which resembles that of much lower elevations in Europe or North America.  It is possible to trek on easily defined trails above 17,000 ft. without any knowledge of mountaineering.  A word of caution, however, since if a storm passes through it may dump as much as four-feet of snow in a single night, making travel on foot nearly impossible and introducing the serious risk of avalanche.  Many unguided high elevation trekkers have become lost in storms and buried by avalanches because the conditions when they departed their lodge in the morning did not cause them concern. 

 

INTERNET

 

At the time of writing this (2016) wireless internet is becoming widely available at lodges along the Everest Base Camp Trek and in the Annapurna Region.  The cost is generally $5 USD for 100 minutes.  If you have a smart phone with an international data plan, you can also access internet this way from most locations where you have a clear view in two directions.  Local data plans are very affordable.  In either case, internet tends to be slow and is best used for email rather than loading websites that have images.  In some locations, however, uploading pictures and even using Skype is possible.  I suspect internet will only improve in the future.  If you are doing a trek in a more remote area, such as Dolpo, Katchenjunga, or the Barun Valley, it is unlikely that you will find internet along your route.

 

Most hotels in Kathmandu offer complimentary internet.  If the service is not fast enough for you, there are numerous internet cafes located in the Thamel district of Kathmandu where you will be staying before and after your trip.  Just ask your guide to point one out to you.

 

SHOWERS

 

Hot showers are available in your hotel room in Kathmandu on either end of your trek or climb.  Gas and solar heated showers are available along your trekking route in larger villages for a charge of between $3 USD and $7 USD (not included in trip cost).  Showers are also sometimes available at climbing basecamps if you are on a climbing trip.  These are solar-heated, and their temperature is dependent upon the weather.

 

CELL PHONE USE

 

It is relatively simple to get an international plan for your cell phone for the length of time you will be in Nepal.  Check with your provider.  To get the best coverage for your phone and the cheapest international rates, consider purchasing a SIM card in Kathmandu.  This may require a different phone than the one you own, since not all phones accept SIM cards.  Ncell has the best coverage in Nepal at the time of writing (2016), and the SIM card will cost you less than $5 USD.  After purchasing the card, you will also need to purchase minutes for your phone.  This can easily be done at any of the small shops selling groceries in Thamel, Kathmandu where your hotel is located.  At the time of writing, a one-minute call to the UK will cost 5 NPR/minute, to the USA 2 NPR/minute, Germany 5 NPR/minute, Canada 2 NPR/minute, Sweden 5 NPR/minute.  Most other countries are 5 NPR/minute or less, with a few countries costing 48 NPR/minute.   The current exchange rate for NPR to USD is 1 NPR is equal to roughly 1 cent (0.01 USD).

 

Cell reception in the mountains of Nepal is getting better every year, and is generally better than what you would expect to find in similarly isolated areas in North America.  The Everest Region (Solukhumbu) has reception in most large villages, as does the Annapurna Region.  Cities, such as Kathmandu and Pokhara, also have good coverage.  If you are heading into a more remote region, or you are located at the bottom of a canyon or gorge, cell reception is likely to be limited or non-existant.  

 

ELECTRICITY AND BATTERY CHARGING

 

In Kathmandu, there may be no power for twelve to eighteen hours per day, depending upon the load shedding schedule and the current availability of electricity from hydropower.  This means that most hotels and restaraunts will not have power from the electrical grid during this time, but most will have solar lights.  Larger businesses, or those with more money, will have a generator to supply power during this time.  Unfortunately the electricity schedule changes every day, so you must look online or in a local paper to see the load shedding schedule for the week.  In otherwords, if you want to use WiFi or charge your devices, you must do so during the hours when there is electricity, or you must find a local business that has a generator.  Our favorite place to use internet and charge devices when there is no power is at Himalayan Java Cofee, located at Tridevi Marg, Keshar Mahal Marg, 44600.  This is within walking distance of your hotel.  Your guide or any local will know where it is located.  They also have delicious coffee, sandwiches, and desert.

 

WEATHER

 

Because of Nepal's proximity to the equator combined with its impressive spread of altitudes from sea level to over eight-thousand-meters, it is possible to experience 100 F (38 C) and 10 F (-12 C) temperatures within the same week of trekking if you are traveling from the low elevation Terai into the Himalaya.  Monthly average temperatures in Kathmandu range from 48 F (9 C) in January to 73 F (23 C) in June, with daytime temperatures as high as 84 F (29 C) in June and nighttime lows as low as 36 F (2 C) in January.

 

Nepal has a monsoon climate, which means that heavy rain should be expected almost every day from late May through early September.  The best months for trekking and climbing in the mountains are mid October-early January, and late March through late April.  The exception is if you plan to go to the far west of Nepal, into such places as Dolpo, which lie in the rainshadow of the Himalaya.  These locations can be visited during the monsoon season when they are warmer and inhabitants have not migrated south.  Many travelers visit Nepal during the summer monsoon season, and it is still possible to see incredible scenery if you are willing to keep a flexible itinerary to account for flight cancellations and other transportation delays that result from stormy weather.  And of course, pack a sturdy umbrella.

 

Table of Average Monthly Temperatures (C) and Precipitation (mm)

 

Month	Temp. (C)	Precip (mm)
January	3.9	18.5
February	5.2	24.2
March	9.8	29.7
April	13.9	44.7
May	16.8	83.8
June	18.7	215.7
July	18.7	351.1
August	18.4	311.3
September	17.2	196.9
October	13.4	54.9
November	8.9	8.6
December	5.3	11.6

 

FLIGHT DELAYS AND CANCELLATIONS

 

Although food and lodging are not covered in your trip cost before or after the trip dates provided on your itinerary, we strongly reccommend that you arrive in Nepal at least two days before the beginning of your itinerary, and depart at least two days after.  This is because in the event your flight to Kathmandu is delayed, you will still arrive in time to join the group in Kathmandu before they depart for the mountains.  If you arrive after your group has already departed for their trek or climb, we will make every effort to connect you to your group, but doing so may require rebooking your internal flights or hiring private transportation which will have an additional cost.  If you are considerably late, it may not be possible to connect you with your goup, and because all permits have been paid and staff have been hired for your trip, it will not be possible to issue a refund.  In the event your baggage is lost en route to Nepal, the extra time at the beginning of your trip will also allow time to find your baggage in Kathmandu before departing on your trip.  Having extra time at the end of the trip is often even more important, since it is not uncommon for internal flights and other transportation to be delayed or cancelled due to bad weather. 

 

HIGH ELEVATION CONCERNS

 

Nepal is known for high mountains, and as a result travelers are often concerned about getting altitude illness.  We design itineraries that have built-in acclimatization days, a slow rate of ascent, and extra days in the event of bad weather or altitude illness.  This adds safety and comfort to our trips that has played a large role in our summit success rate and favorable reputation.  This is also why our trips tend to be longer than trips offered by other Nepalese companies.

 

Unfortunately, despite these measures some trekkers and climbers who travel above 11,000 ft. (3,350 m) will experience mild Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS).  Symptoms may include headache, nausea, loss of apetite, and general fatigue.   

 

Below is what we reccommend to prevent and treat AMS.

 

After arriving at a higher elevation (above 7,000 ft.), engage in low intensity exercise, such as walking.  Avoid lying down or napping even if you are tired, since this will lower your respiratory rate and exasperate symptoms.  Drink plenty of warm fluids with sugar, such as tea or hot chocolate.  Caffeine and ibuprofin (400 to 600mg) also tend to help.  Do not eat heavy meals when you first arrive at high elevation, particularly those that have large amounts of animal fat or dairy.  Stay out of the sun, and keep your body temperature cool.  The morning is when people experience the most severe symptoms, since the respiratory rate is slowed during sleep.  Upon waking-up, sit-up slowly, wait a full minute, and then rise to your feet.  If you have a headache, drink some caffeinated tea and walk for fifteen minutes to increase your respiratory rate and blood circulation.  Most people experience relief immediately after light exercise and ingesting fluids.   

 

Those with mild asthma are capable of participating in high elevation trekking, though special precautions should be taken.  While trekking dust and dry high elevation air combine to create challenging circumstances for those with asthma.  Maintaining proper hydration, moving slowly, and taking breaks in the shade is very important.  Albuterol must be carried by participants (two inhalers) and one inhaler must also be provided to the guide or to a family member or friend who knows how to administer it.

 

If you are traveling to elevations above 11,000 ft., it is advised to take 125mg (½ of a 250 mg tablet) of acetazolomide (brand name Diamox) the evening before ascending above 11,000 ft., and another 125mg every morning and evening you spend above 11,000 ft.  Discontinue the dose when you begin descending.  Some people with an allergy to sulfa drugs have a sensitivity to acetazolomide, and it can interact with some medications.  For these reasons we recommend that you speak with a medical doctor before using acetazolomide.   If you have a history of headaches at altitude, we also reccommend you take 400 to 600mg of ibuprofin 45 minutes before ascent.  Some participants have also had good results with Excedrin, which contains acetominophen, asprin, and caffeine.  

 

If you will be traveling above 16,000 ft. (4,877m) we also reccommend that you carry dexamethasone (brand name Decadron).  This medication is for Cerebral Edema, which is a severe condition caused by inflamation of the brain due to exposure to high altitude.  This condition is extremely rare, but can be deadly if untreated.  Dexamethosone is a prescription drug in most Western countries, and you should speak with your doctor about obtaining a prescription and other information such as dosage and use.  

 

A list of recommended medication is provided in the packing list associated with your trip.     

 

COSTS IN NEPAL

 

Below is a table of costs for typical items in Nepal in 2016.  Costs are in USD for ease of understanding but payment should be in Nepali Rupees (NPR):

 

Item	Cost
Cheap meal in Kathmandu	$2 to $6 USD
Moderate meal  in Kathmandu	$8 to $15 USD
Cup of tea at a  restaraunt	$0.15 to $1.60 USD
Cheap Lodging in Kathmandu	$5 to $35 USD
Expensive Lodging  in Kathmandu	$50 to $250 USD
Trekking Map	$4 to $16 USD
Trekking pants	$8 to $35 USD
Down Jacket	$25 to $160 USD
Sunscreen	$5 to $8 USD
Trekking Poles	$10 to $50 USD
45 liter backpack	$25 to $65 USD
Down-filled pants	$55 to $70 USD
Expedition Mitts	$20 to $35 USD
Buff	$2 to $3 USD
Down Booties	$12 to $30 USD
Down sleeping bag	$50 to $130 USD

 

 

PROTECTING THE HIMALAYAN ENVIRONMENT

 

We abide by the following practices and ask our trip participants to do the same whenever possible:

 

• Filter your own water rather than purchasing boiled water from villages that use firewood for cooking.  
  • By filtering our own water we help reduce the cutting of local wood to boil the water, which is resulting in deforestation throughout the country.
  • If your trip takes place away from the popular treks of the Everest Region and Annapurna Region we suggest that you bring your own water filter to reduce the impact of your stay on the local forests. Along popular trekking routes propane, kerosene, and butane are brought-up from major cities for cooking fuel.

 

• Pack-out or burn toilet paper.  
  • Many villages have plumbing that cannot handle toilet paper, or rely on pit toilets where toilet paper will not fully decompose.  In these circumstances it is better to carry your used toilet paper with you in a paper bag that is enclosed in a sealed plastic bag (double-bagged) until the paper bag can be burned in a fire-safe location.  The same applies if you need to go while you are on the trail.  If you need to deficate where there are no toilet facilities, solid waste should be buried four-to-six inches below ground level.  If you do not have a trowel, you can dig with the heel of your shoe or a rock.

 

• Pack-out all trash, including beer bottles, soda bottles, wrappers, feminine hygiene products, and wet-wipes.
  • All trash in Nepal's mountains is disposed of in local landfills.  In other words, if you purchase a soda at 16,000 ft. and throw the bottle in a trash can in your lodge, that soda bottle will be thrown in a hole behind the lodge where it will stay indefinitely.  If you look carefully while you are on a popular trekking route, you will see overflowing landfills in every major village.  By packing-out your trash and disposing of waste in Kathmandu, you help protect Nepal's mountain environment. 

 

• Eat local food and drink local drink whenever possible.
  • By eating food that is grown locally you reduce the impact of food transport while supporting the local economy.  You also have a better culinary experience.  The impact of food transport includes trucking the food from Kathmandu or Pokhara to trailheads, moving the food by pack animal to higher elevations, and finally using porters to transport the food through national parks and conservation areas where pack animals are not allowed.

 

• Pack-out human waste from climbing basecamps.
  • With the help of the NGO "Karma Project", we have begun using a blue-barrel system to pack-out human waste from our climbing basecamps.  By packing-out our waste we protect watersheds that are used by tourists and locals alike for drinking water.  We also preserve the visual and olfactory experience of the mountains for future climbers and trekkers.  We were the first Nepali company to use such a system, and we hope that other tourism companies across Nepal adopt this policy too.

 

PROTECTING LOCAL PEOPLE AND CULTURES

 

By booking a trip with us you are helping to protect local people in a variety of ways.  Nepal Alpine Guides was founded by Karma Geljen Sherpa who experienced abuse as a porter and guide in the mountain tourism industry of Nepal.  He was seldom provided with insurance, proper training or equipment, or even basic clothing such as shoes so he could do his work in the mountains.  His only payment for some expeditions were tips, which frequently never came.  Karma was able to build Nepal Alpine Guides with the help of former clients and friends so that he could employ tourism workers for good wages, provide insurance, and provide proper equipment, clothing, and training.  In addition, Nepal Alpine Guides is supported by Karma Project, an NGO that contributes funding to medical treatment, education, and infrastructure in the villages where mountain tourism workers live.  Every time you book a trip through Nepal Alpine Guides, you contribute to Karma Project, and therefore to the welfare of hundreds of villagers across Nepal.