Passport

• You will get a visa upon entry.  The cost is 40 dollars for less than 30 days, or 100 dollars US for more than 30 days.

 

Color Passport Photocopies (2)

• One you will bring on the trek with you.  One will stay in Kathmandu.  These are in case you lose your passport.

 

Passport Photos (6)

• You will need photos for your visa, your peak climbing permits, your trekker ID card, and your certificate following the climb. Six total.

 

Credit/Debit Cards

• Call your bank and let them know you will be using your credit/debit card overseas.

• Credit cards are only accepted at more expensive hotels and restaurants.  However, if the card is stolen, it can be cancelled without loss of money

• Bring a debit card to get cash (Nepali Rupees) from local ATMs and banks.  The daily withdraw limit is often less than 300 USD.  Call your bank to increase this limit if possible.

 

American Dollars (Cash)

• American dollars are accepted for your Visa Upon Arrival.  You will need exact change in twenty-dollar-bills or a one-hundred-dollar-bill: $40 for up to 30 days, $100 for up to 90 days.  

• USD (cash) in one-hundred-dollar-bills will give you the best exchange rate when converting to Nepali Rupees (NPR) at exchange booths.  Twenty-dollar-bills are also accepted at exchange booths, though the rate is usually not as good.  USD is rarely accepted by smaller vendors, so it is best to exchange most of your USD for NPR.

• Bring Nepali Rupees with you on the trek/climb for the following items:

  • Tips for your staff.  Budget $10 USD/day of your trip, but make sure the currency is converted to Nepali Rupees before leaving Kathmandu.  This will be divided amongst all of your staff equally.

  • Money for snacks, if desired.  Budget $6 USD in NPR for each day you are trekking/climbing.

  • Optional money for internet, battery charging, and/or showers.  Cost for internet: $3 to $6 in NPR.  Cost for shower: $2 to $4 in NPR.  Cost for battery charge: $1 to $5 in NPR.  

  • Optional money for alcohol. Cost of a beer on a trek: $4 to $7 in NPR.

• Travelers checks are not generally accepted in Nepal.

 

Envelopes (5)

• Envelopes are used for giving tips to staff on the last day of your trip

• Bring 5

 

Packs

 

Trekking Pack/climbing pack

• 65-85 Liters

• Ice tool attachment system

• Gear loops helpful, but not necessary

• Side straps (compression straps) that can be used to carry closed-cell foam pads

• Deuter, Black Diamond, Arcteryx, Osprey, Mammut, Marmot

• Will be used to approach the mountain, stock camps on the mountain, as a summit pack (will be emptied) and to take-down camps on descent.  Keep it light-weight.

 

Duffel Bag

• 80-110 Liter

• Water repellant fabric

• Be sure the zippers are strong- they will take some abuse

• Shoulder straps helpful, but not necessary

• Loops for tying the pack off to pack animals

• The duffel will be locked to prevent theft while your gear is being stored

• Marmot, Gregory, North Face, REI

• Can be purchased for under 30 dollars in Kathmandu

• Will be used to transport climbing equipment and food to and from Base camp.

 

Waterproofing

• One waterproof pack cover big enough to fit over your large backpack when it is full

• Two contractor bags to further waterproof your gear inside duffel bags and backpacks.  These are stronger than garbage bags, but otherwise look similar.

• Large, sturdy waterproof bags are available for purchase in Kathmandu.

 

Hydration

 

Camelbak/hydration bladder (optional)

• 2 to 4 Liter capacity

• MSR makes very durable and light water bladders as well as hydration hoses that attach to these bladders (sold separately).

• Will be used on the approach for hydrating and in camp to transport water for cooking.  We will not use this while climbing since it will freeze.

 

Thermos

• 1 liter or greater capacity

• We like the Fifty/Fifty brand and hydroflask because they fit well in water bottle pockets on backpacks and are wide-mouth.

• Will be used to keep liquid from freezing at night, to refill hot water bottles, and to provide you with a steady supply of warm fluids to drink.

 

Nalgene waterbottles (2)

• One liter capacity each

• Two are needed because of the importance of hydration at altitude during our long summit day.  You will also be carrying your thermos for a third liter.

• Hard plastic water bottles that can hold hot liquids

• Will be used for hydration while in sub-freezing temperatures on the mountain.  Will also be used as hot water bottles to be placed in your sleeping bag at night. 

• Metal can work, but gets very cold and will need to have a water bottle jacket when hot liquids are placed inside in order to minimize the risk of burning yourself.

• Nalgene or similar.

 

Water bottle Jacket/parka (1)

• One insulative jacket that your 1 liter Nalgene water bottle will slide into in order to maintain the heat of warm liquids.

• The jacket should have an attachment system for your backpack to make it easy to access your liquid.

• Your other water bottle can be insulated in your backpack by wrapping it in extra clothing, while your third liter is in your thermos

• Outdoor Research water bottle parka

 

Pee Bottle (optional)

• Some men (and women!) prefer to use a pee bottle and relieve themselves in the comfort of their tents rather than venture outside when it’s cold or stormy.

• Wide mouth is necessary

• If using a Gaitoraid bottle . . . label it!

• We recommend the wide-mouth 48 oz Nalgene Cantene, which is a very light and  collapsible water bottle with a very wide opening.  32oz is too small for most people.

• Women can use a pee funnel, such as the “Freshette”, combined with the pee bottle

 

Stove

• A light-weight iso-butane stove is necessary for every member of the expedition. 

• Will be used above base camp for melting snow into water and for cooking.

• Melting water is a very time consuming process that can take several hours each morning.

• Must be a butane/propane stove (not liquid fuel).  This is the gas that is available for us to purchase in Nepal.  We cannot transport fuel aboard aircraft.

• A jet-boil will work, but the igniter tends not to work at altitude.  Also be careful when storing the jet-boil, since small droplets of water in the pot tend to freeze quickly, causing the whole set-up to be stuck together inside.

• Our favorite is the MSR Reactor because it melts water very quickly.  Our second favorite is the MSR Pocket Rocket because it is compact and light-weight, but it does not perform nearly as well in the cold.

• MSR, Primus

 

Personal Pot

• 1 to 2 Liter capacity

• Will be used for self-care on the mountain:  Melting snow, making tea, hot water bottles, extra soup, etc.

• Aluminum or titanium

 

Lighters (2)

• You must keep the lighters in your pocket or on a necklace so they stay warm or they will not function in cold temps.

 

Sleeping Gear

 

Sleeping Bag (1 of 2)

• You will need two bags.  This first bag is for camping on the approach and for base camp.  It will be left at base camp while your warmer bag will be left at a higher camp so you do not need to shuttle it up and down the mountain as you acclimatize.

• 600 to 800 fill down sleeping bag

• Rated to 10 degrees F or colder conditions

• Baffled Hood and zipper

• Should not be too large, as this will allow cold air to circulate around your body

• Just enough room to accommodate wearing a puffy coat and puffy pants inside the bag if it is especially cold

• Marmot, Northface, Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, Brooks Range, Valaundre

• You can rent this bag in Kathmandu for around $1 USD/day, but it will be very bulky.  This is not of great concern because our basecamp materials will be brought-up by pack animals.  You may need to pay extra baggage charges on the internal flight if you are over capacity.

 

Sleeping Bag (2 of 2)

• 800 fill or 800+ fill down bag rated to at least 0 degrees Fahrenheit.

• Should be as light-weight and compressible as possible.  You will carry this up/down the mountain.

• Should be an expedition quality bag with hood and baffled zippers.

• This bag will be used at higher camps, and left at higher camps when you return to base camp while acclimatizing.

• Marmot, Northface, Western Mountaineering, Feathered Friends, Brooks Range, Valaundre

• Do not rent this bag in Nepal.  Rentals will be too bulky/heavy.  The lighter and more compressible, the better.

 

Compression Stuff Sacks (3)

• Light weight, waterproof, compressible stuff sacks for both sleeping bags

• Another stuff sack for your expedition parka as well

• Outdoor Research, Sea to Summit

 

Sleeping Pad (1 of 2)

• You will need two sleeping pads

• This sleeping pad should be closed-cell foam- not inflatable

• Will be used for sitting-on while in camp, as a wind block for stoves, and as padding while sleeping

• Z-rest Pads (by Cascade Designs) work well

 

Sleeping Pad (2 of 2)

• Inflatable sleeping pad

• Bring a patch kit, and know how to use it.

• This pad will be used on top of your closed-cell foam pad to add comfort when sleeping on rocky and uneven surfaces such as Camp I and II.

• For those accustom to using only closed-cell foam pads when camping, you are encouraged to consider bringing an inflatable pad as well.  Many of the camps on the mountain have large jagged rocks beneath the tent platforms that make sleeping difficult if not well padded.

• Pro-lite 4, neo-air, X-therm

 

 

Head

 

Baseball Cap

• Packable, light colored, with a dark under-brim is best, but any will work

• Make sure this fits comfortably under a helmet (no button on top)

• Outdoor Research (OR)

 

Warm hat

• Fleece, wool, or synthetic. 

• Be sure it covers ears well, and will not easily blow away.

• Should fit under your climbing helmet comfortably (no tassels or ball on top)

 

Balaclava

• Light-weight and Snug fitting

• Allows you to breath easily

• Fleece or wool

• Good neck coverage

• This will reduce wind-burn and add some warmth.  It can be combined with your neck gaiter if you need extra protection and warmth

 

Silk/Nylon Buff

• A tube of fabric with open ends. 

• Light color

• Will be used as a light-weight balaclava, for keeping dust out of nasal passages, and for sun protection

• Available in Kathmandu for less than 3 dollars

 

Fleece Neck Gaiter

• Should be a cinch on the top to convert the gaiter to a hat

• Serves as a back-up hat in case you lose yours (important consideration)

• Keeps spin-drift out of your jacket and cold wind off your neck

• Quickly converts to a balaclava when pulled-up over mouth and nose

• Available for less than 5 dollars in Kathmandu

 

Headlamp

• Bright, spot-light setting, and low, economy setting

• At least 200 lumen max setting

• Will be used for route finding early in the morning and on descent

• Black Diamond, Petzl, Mammut

 

Headlamp Batteries (3 sets)

• Lithium will give you longer lasting performance in cold temperatures.  Be sure they are compatible with your headlamp, and bring three sets total.

 

Sunglasses

• Full UV protection

• These will be used on the approach and descent, and can serve as a back-up if you lose your glacier glasses on the route

 

Glacier Glasses

• Very dark/reflective lenses.  The darker/more reflective, the better.

• Must have side shields or a wrap-around design

• Keeper cord/croakies

• Nose Shield not necessary, but good for those prone to sun-burn

• Julbo (brand)

 

Climbing Helmet

• Lightweight and durable

• Ultra-light foam-bodied helmets easily break when carried by pack animals or when stored inside compressed packs.  If this is your choice, extra care must be taken to insure it isn’t damaged.

• Black Diamond, Petzl, CAMP, Grivel

 

Hands

 

Garden Gloves/work gloves

• Nitrile

• Thin gloves that make it easy to manipulate the gates of locking carabiners

• Rubbery, non-breathable palm

• Dexterity is more important than warmth

• Will be used as a liner glove, and as a climbing glove in warm conditions

• Atlas or other brand

 

Chemical Hand Warmers

• 8 pair

• 10 hr. (6-8 hr. is OK)

• Do not buy warmers with a sticky backing

• Will be used under wrist cuff of garden gloves to warm blood as it flows to the fingers while climbing

• Will be used in boots and in sleeping socks when it is not possible to heat water bottles due to fuel conservation.

 

Liner Gloves (1 pair)

• Windstopper fleece or soft-shell

• Mid-weight

• Black Diamond, Outdoor Research

• Will be used when trekking, or over garden gloves or under mittens when more warmth is needed

• Ideally these have enough dexterity to tie knots and open carabiners

• Outdoor Research Lodestar Gloves, Gripper, Extra-vert, and storm tracker gloves

 

Technical Ice Climbing Gloves

• Choose a medium-warm pair with good dexterity

• If the glove is warm but too bulky to clip/unclip fixed lines you will have to take them off frequently

• Black Diamond Punisher, Outdoor Research Project Gloves

 

Two-layer Expedition mittens for extreme cold

• Outer mitten of a waterproof, breathable fabric (goretex)

• Inner mitten (removable) of synthetic fill

• Outer mitten can be worn over liner gloves, or over inner mittens depending upon need for warmth and dexterity

• Outdoor Research, Marmot, Black Diamond, Mountain Hardwear

 

Feet

 

Expedition Boot

• Double Plastic Boot or 6000 meter boot with incorporated gaiter

• Good to temperatures of -10 F

• Inner boot can be removed from a plastic shell, or there is an incorporated gaiter that zips over the upper boot, or both

• Step-in crampon compatible

• As light-weight as possible without sacrificing warmth

• If you would like to use a single boot (not a double plastic), and have experience with the product in very cold conditions, please speak with your guide(s).  If you have favorable weather, the summit of AmaDablam may be as warm as 30 degrees F.  If it’s especially nasty, it may be as low as -10 F. 

• Scarpa, Asolo, La Sportiva, Koflack.

 

Crampons

• SIZE THEM TO YOUR BOOTS.  If the sizing bar for your crampons is too small to accommodate your expedition boots, you will not be able to climb.

• Step-in/full automatic (the heel locks down and the toe goes under a bail wire)

• Steel front points (aluminum will dull and bend)

• Anti-bot plates (to keep snow from sticking underneath)

• Vertically aligned front points work great.  Horizontal is fine as long as they work well on vertical ice.  Mono points not recommended due to stability on low angle terrain.

• Designed for glacier travel and vertical ice/mixed climbing

• Please bring at least one spare sizing bar for your brand of crampon.  These may need to be special ordered from the company, so do this ahead of time.  The route includes rock and ice.  Crampons sizing bars break.

• Crampons MUST BE SHARP.  If yours are dull, get them sharpened before the climb.  The ice on the final headwall can be very hard.

• Black Diamond, Petzl, Grivel

 

Trekking shoes/Approach shoes

• Sticky rubber sole that works well on rock

• Comfortable for the long approach and trek back (more than 60 miles)

• Performance of the shoe for climbing is second to comfort in trekking, since this will be the majority of its use

• Trail runners are OK if you have used them scrambling, and feel they will not slide on 35 degree rock slab.

• These will be used for the approach, and for climbing all the way to Camp II which includes two short pitches of class five rock up to 5.8 in difficulty (on fixed lines).

• High tops or incorporated gaiters are nice if snow is encountered along the route.  An ankle gaiter may also be used for this purpose.

• La Sportiva, Garmont, Scarpa, Salewa, North Face. Five-Ten

 

Gaiters

• A durable pair of gaiters is helpful for the snow-covered portion of the route above Camp II.

• Ankle gaiters (made by OR) may be used in conjunction with approach shoes/trail runners below Camp II if snow is encountered.

• If you are worried about foot warmth, purchase a pair of insulated super gaiters from Mountain Tools.  These increase the temp rating of your boots by about 10F.

• Outdoor Research, Mountain Hardware, Mountain Tools

 

Socks

• Three pairs of mid-weight hiking socks (wool) to be used on approach and descent

• Three pairs of heavy-weight mountaineering socks for use on the mountain

• Three pairs of liner socks (optional) for those who have problems with blisters (thin synthetic)

• You will hand wash these every day or two.  Bringing many pairs only adds bulk.

• Smartwool, Bridgedale, Icebreaker

 

Down/synthetic Booties (optional)

• Should have a light-weight, insulated sole if possible

• For use around base camp and for peeing in the night

• Available in Kathmandu for less than 20 dollars

• If you have double plastic boots, your inner boot can serve this purpose.

 

Upper Body

 

T-shirts (2)

• Two synthetic t-shirts (running shirts work great).

• A light color is good for reflecting the sun.

• As light weight and packable as possible

• One shirt can be used as a towel after showering

• Outdoor Research, Patagonia, Marmot, Adidas, Champion Gear

 

Long underwear tops (2)

• One medium weight, one expedition weight/micro-fleece

• Light color is good for reflecting the sun

• Synthetic or wool.  No cotton.

• Will be used for layering, as well as for an outer layer while trekking

 

Loose fitting long-sleeve button-up shirt (optional)

• The purpose of this shirt is to protect you from the sun. 

• The secondary purpose is to give you a “town shirt”

• Should be a light color and cool.  Cotton is fine.

 

Fleece or soft-shell jacket

• To be used as a highly breathable but warm layer when hiking up snow covered terrain on the approach.

• Full zip makes it easy to shed the layer or put it on when temperatures change

 

Light-weight Synthetic fill or down jacket

• A hood is a big plus, but not essential

• To be used as part of your layering system when temperatures are just above freezing, but don’t warrant using your expedition parka

• Patagonia, Outdoor Research, Rab, Arcteryx

 

Down Vest (optional)

• If you are generally cold, or if your parka is on the lighter side, this is recommended

• Best if can compress into a small stuff sack

• Available in Kathmandu for less than 60 dollars

 

Expedition Down Parka

• Should be a fully baffled, down filled parka with a hood

• Good to temps of 0 F

• Combined with other layers will give you comfort to -10F

• Should be light-weight and compact for carrying up the mountain

• Outdoor Research, Marmot, North Face, Mountain Hardware, Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering, Valaundre

 

Parka Stuff Sack

• A very light-weight, waterproof compression sack for storing your parka in your pack

 

Waterproof/breathable Jacket

• Pertex Sheild, Gore-tex, e-vent, or another light-weight waterproof/breathable fabric

• Chest pocket is nice to have so you have pocket access while wearing your pack or harness.

• Choose light weight over heavy (often more expensive) alternatives

• Be sure the jacket is roomy enough to accommodate several layers underneath

• If the jacket is not new, use Nikwax or a similar product to renew the water proofing.

• This jacket will be used to shed snow, wind, and light rain.  In heavy rain at lower elevations we use umbrellas and ponchos (these jackets will wet-out).

• Mountain Hardware, North Face, Outdoor Research, Helly Hensen, Millet, Mammut, Arcteryx, Rab

 

Poncho

• Small, light, and cheap.  If the poncho is a “one time use” product, bring two.

• Plastic/PVC/silicone impregnated nylon

• Do not bring heavy rubber ponchos

• These are difficult to find in Nepal, so bring these from home.  When it rains, it pours.

 

Umbrella

• This may not get style points in drizzly places like Seattle, but in places where rain means drops the size of ping-pong balls, this is the only thing other than a roof that will keep you dry.

• This item may easily be purchased in Kathmandu or Namche Bizarre (Everest Region) for less than 15.00 USD

• If you bring one from the States, be sure it is durable.  This matters more than weight or compactness.

 

Lower Body

 

Underwear (2 to 4 pr.)

• Some men (and women too) opt not to wear underwear.  Bring at least one pair for bathing in natural water sources and for times of gastro-intestinal distress.

• Synthetic, fast drying, with few seams to prevent chafing. 

 

Long John Bottoms (1 pr.)

• One pair medium weight

• Synthetic or wool.  No cotton.

 

Hiking Shorts that double as a swim suit

• Should be able to be used for hiking and bathing

• Light weight, packable

• Synthetic and fast drying

• Running shorts, men’s bathing suits, or boy shorts work well

• Women should not bring bikinis due to cultural norms. 

 

Hiking Pants

• Light weight and packable

• Cargo pocket with a zipper is a plus

• Zip-offs are fine

• Nylon canvass or other synthetic material

• Mountain Hardware, Outdoor Research, Millet, Arcteryx

 

Softshell Pants

• Mid-weight hiking/alpine climbing style pant

• Insulated pants for skiing are heavy and too warm for conditions while trekking or climbing low on the mountain.

• Will serve as an extra pair of hiking pants for higher elevations

• Can be combined with long-johns to control warmth

• Patagonia, OR, Mountain Hardwear, Mammut, Arcteryx

 

Fleece Pants/micro-fleece pants

• Used for sleeping, or for adding an extra layer under over-pants on particularly cold climbing days. 

 

Synthetic Fill/Down Filled Pants

• Full side zip

• Will be worn at camps and on the climb if we need to wait for parties to clear the fixed lines

• Synthetic fill works well if the pants get wet from melting snow

• Mountain Hardwear, Feathered Friends, Outdoor Research, Rab, Black Diamond

• Down pants can be purchased in Kathmandu for less than $65.

 

Over-pants

• Goretex or another waterproof, breathable fabric

• Reinforced lower leg to protect against crampon puncture

• Side zips

• At least one pocket is helpful for storing camera, sun screen, or snacks

• Mountain Hardwear, Outdoor Research, Arcteryx, Patagonia

 

Hardwear

 

Harness

• Alpine-style harness or light-weight rock climbing harness

• Must have a belay loop

• Avoid harnesses with thin straps and small buckles.  These will be very uncomfortable while rappelling with the added weight of a backpack, and difficult to fasten/unfasten when your fingers are cold.

• Should have gear loops for clipping carabiners etc.

• Our favorites are the Singing Rock Flake harness and CAMP Alp Mountain

 

Jumar (ascender) (1)

• Purchase an ascender for your dominant hand.  For most of us that is a right-handed ascender.

• The ascender should have a grip large enough to be used while wearing bulky gloves or mittens

• A thumb release is preferable to releases that must be operated by other digits since thumb releases work when wearing mittens.

• Petzl Ascension Ascender

 

Carabiners

 

Small twist-lock (auto-locking), key-nosed carabiners (4)

• You need four of these

• Do not buy screw-gate lockers.  These will gradually unlock do to cyclic loading of your jumar (ascender)

• Do not buy “pull-twist” locking carabiners.  Locking carabiners that require two actions are difficult to operate while wearing mitts, and even more difficult when using your left hand without the aid of your right.

• These carabiners will be used to secure you to fixed-lines by attaching to jumars (ascenders), prusiks, or by “crab-clawing” you onto a tensioned line.

• Madrock’s ultra-tech twist lock is a good choice

 

Large Pear-shaped, Twist-Lock, Key Nosed, Carabiners (HMS) (2)

• You need two of these

• The notes on the small twist-lock carabiners above apply to these as well

• One of these carabiners will be used in combination with your figure-8 rappel device.  The other is a back-up to be used with a munter-hitch in the event that you drop your figure-8 . . . which is easy to do when you’re exhausted at altitude and wearing gloves.

• Black Diamond Rocklock Twist-lock

 

Wire gate carabiners (5)

• You need two wiregates to clip your two ice screws to your harness, one wire-gate to attach a rescue prussic to your harness, one to attach your ice axe to your harness, and one large wire-gate for your jumar’s ‘keeper hole’

• Black Diamond wire gate oval, Camp nano 22

 

Figure-8 Rappel Device

• Figure-8 devices tend to work well when descending less-than-vertical terrain because they do not create as much friction or create friction as quickly as tube-style devices such as an ATC.  Most of the descent of Amadablam is less than vertical (between 50 and 70 degrees), so having a little less friction is helpful.

• If a fixed-line becomes encased in ice, a tube-style device may jam, while a figure-8 often (but not always) will allow the rope to continue through.

• Omega Pacific, Blue Water, Mammut

 

Personal Anchor System (PAS)

• Interconnected loops- not a daisy-chain

• Will be used to anchor yourself and to attach to fixed-lines

• Will also be used to extend rappels

• Metolius, Blue Water, Black Diamond

 

Double-length Runner (48 in., 120cm)

• Nylon is better than spectra or dynema/dynex for holding-up to crampon abuse

• Will be used to create a foot-loop if you need to prussic up a difficult section

• May be used to create a chest harness for you when rappelling with a backpack.

• Can also be used to create an improvised anchor in combination with your ice screws if you need to wait for other parties

• Black Diamond Nylon Runner

 

5mm Nylon Cord Prusik loops (3)

• You need three loops.

• Use Sterling cord.  Many other brands become kinked and will not produce friction hitches that hold on thin diameter ropes.

• 5 mil diameter.  Larger diameter will not grip the thin fixed lines well (many lines are only 8 mil, and do not have a sheath). 

• Made by tying 5 ft. sections of cord into a loop with a double-fisherman’s knot

• Will be used to back-up rappels on slippery and thin lines and to add extra safety on less-than-vertical descents when rappelling is not possible due to the fall line.

 

Ice tool leash or 6 ft. of 5mm cord

• This will be used to attach your ice tool to your harness so you cannot drop it on climbers below you.

• This leash should not be a wrist leash.  It should attach from the spike at the end of the grip of your ice tool to your harness.

• Black Diamond Slinger Leash, Grivel easy slider

 

7 mil nylon cordalette (15-20 ft.)

• Will be carried in order to improve fixed-line anchors or to create V-threads if we need to pass other parties while descending

 

Technical ice tool (1)

• An ice tool with a sharp pick made for penetrating hard ice

• Should be an adze tool, not a hammer, since we may need to cut hard snow/ice to create tent platforms and harvest snow for water

• A bent or straight shaft is fine

• Hybrid tools such as CAMP’s Alp Axe Special or the Black Diamond Venom work well on the varied terrain

 

Crampons

(please see the section titled “Feet” above)

 

Ice Screws (2)

• Two, 22 cm screws

• If fixed lines are crowded and we are attempting to descend past other parties we can use these to build alternate anchors in order to pass.

• Black Diamond Turbo Express, Petzl lazer sonic

 

Ice Screw Caps (2)

• These are rubberized caps that cover the tips of your screws to prevent puncturing your clothing or gear while they are being carried.

 

V-thread wire

• One V-thread wire

• Will be used to create an ice-anchor for a rappel in the event of crowding at an anchor/on a fixed line

• Petzl multi-hook V-thread

 

Rescue Knife

• Light, with a carabiner hole to connect to your harness.  For cutting cord.

 

Multi-tool

• Simple, small, and durable

• Pliers, a knife blade, and screw-drivers are handy

• The knife will be used for food prep and cutting cord, the pliers for cooking, and the screw-driver for fixing crampons and trekking poles

• Carry a tool to adjust the pick on your ice axe and the front points of your crampons as well.

 

Trekking Poles

• These are knee saving, and excellent for the approach as high as Camp I

• Snow baskets are great since we may be traveling over snow-covered passes as part of our acclimatization.

• Black Diamond Expedition Ski Pole

 

Personal medical kit and Self-Care

​

Most of these medications are available in pharmacies in Nepal.  However, it is advised that you consult your doctor and obtain a prescription for these medications since they may interact dangerously with medications you are taking or could exasperate preexisting conditions.

 

Eyeglass case or similar hard case

• This is used to store your medications and prevent pills from being crushed after they are packed tight in your pack

 

Plastic Bags

• 4, one gallon bags

• 4, one quart bags

• Will be used for organizing and waterproofing

 

Medications/pills

• Vitamin supplement (30)

• Iron supplement (30)

• Ciprofloaxin (cipro)  500 mg 2/day for 3 days (12)

• Azithromyocin 500mg 1 x day/3 days (10)

• Cefixime/cefy-O. For UTIs, strep throat, ear infect., bronchitis. 400mg 1/day (10)

• Flagyl/Tinvista (metronidazol) 3 x day for 7 days (12)

• Dromamine/dimenhydrinate  1 every 4 hrs. (12)

• Tylenol/acetaminophen (20)

• Ibuprofin/Advil/NSAID (20)

• Benedryl/diphenhydramine (10)

• Antacids (8)

• Cranberry capsules (for women)

• Monostat (for women)

• Dexamethazone/Decadron (prescription) 4mg/6 hrs. until symptoms are gone

• Diamox/Acetazolomide (20) –this is a sulfa-based drug and interacts with aspirin and many sedatives.

• Personal medications in a 40 day supply (40 days to account for flight time and any unforeseen extensions)

• WARNING:  If you generally take sleeping pills/sedatives, please consult your doctor.  Some of these medications interact dangerously with medications such as acetazolomide which are used to help speed the process of acclimatization, and some may slow acclimatization even in the absence of other medications.

 

Insect Repellent/Deet

• At least 50% deet. 

• We will have our gear transported to basecamp by pack animals.  Using insect repellent on our luggage can prevent insects that are feeding on the pack animals from entering our baggage.

 

Oral Electrolytes (4 packets)

• Electrolyte powder available from pharmacies in Kathmandu

 

Iodine (30 gram bottle)

• An eye-drop bottle of iodine.  Bring bleach if you have an iodine sensitivity.

• Used for wound care and water purification.

 

Eye care

• Bring contacts, cleaning solution, or eye glasses as needed.

• We STRONGLY recommend that you bring glasses and opt not to use contacts on the trekking and climbing portion of this trip.  Cold temperatures and dust can make contacts problematic.

 

Blister kit

• Duct tape (small roll)

• Second Skin (one package)

• Mole skin (one package)

• Band aids (a variety of sizes)

• Antibiotic ointment (one tube)

• Cloth tape (one roll)

• Trauma shears for cutting tape

 

Ace wrap/brace

• If you have a history of ankle or knee pain- even if it is not current- please bring a brace

• Ace wraps are an excellent back-up in case anything unpredicted happens.

 

Oral thermometer

• This can help determine if you have a bacterial infection and its severity

 

Toe nail clippers

 

Tweezers

 

Camp soap/liquid soap/shampoo (2)

• Pack two, 6oz bottles

• The bottles should have a screw-off cap, not a button that levers-up one side of the cap because these leak easily with changing pressure and elevation

• Will be used for cleaning clothes, body, and hands

 

Bar of soap (1/2 a bar)

• This will be used for cleaning clothes and your body.

• If you can find a bar-soap laundry detergent (common in Mexican grocery stores), bring that along with a bar of soap for your body.

 

Sunscreen

• A 10 oz bottle is enough for the amount of skin that will be exposed.

• You can find this in Kathmandu

• If you prefer a particular brand/type, bring it. 

• Think high elevation sun for 10 hours/day . . . and snow glare.

• Your sunscreen should have both UVA and UVB protection.  It should read “broad spectrum”

• Zinc oxide sticks are available in Kathmandu as well.

 

Lip balm (2)

• Should have sun protection

• You can find this in Kathmandu.  Bring your own if you like a particular brand.

 

Tooth brush and Paste

 

Feminine hygiene supplies

• Bring supplies for the month-plus long trip, plus a little extra (works great for wound care too).

• If you choose to bring disposable supplies, tin foil works well to wrap-up the waste and then place it in a plastic bag until the next available trash receptacle.  Just remember to bring tin foil and extra zip-locks.

• If you use a reusable device like a diva-cup, be sure you are able to wash your hands and supplies with filtered, boiled water.  It can be a little more time intensive, but easy to do with the resources available.

 

Personal Grooming Supplies

• Razer(s)

• Hair-brush etc.

 

Water Filter

• In much of the Himalaya wood is used as the primary fuel source for heating and purifying water.  To reduce our impact on the landscape, we request each trip participant to bring a water filter.

• Water filters should be used if gathering water from local taps.  This water is not purified. 

• We do not recommend drinking water from taps in Kathmandu even if it has been filtered.  Until we find a more environmentally responsible alternative, we recommend drinking bottled and boiled water in Kathmandu.

 

Blue bags/human waste removal bags (4)

• Once we are at high camps on AmaDablam, there is no good way to dispose of human waste other than to pack it out.

 

Toilet Paper (2 rolls)

• Bring double-ply in the event you have intestinal problems.

• Available in Kathmandu

 

Lighter

• An extra lighter or box of matches for burning toilet paper if you have to go while on the trail.  To be placed in a plastic bag with a roll of TP and hand sanitizer.

 

Hand sanitizer (2 bottles)

• To be used before every meal, and after every bathroom stop.

 

Brown paper lunch bags (3)

• You will put used TP in these if you need to go while on the trail.

• These can be burned in wood burning stoves at lodges (NOT in cooking fires)

 

1 gallon plastic bag

• For a second, outer bag when packing-out TP in brown paper bags

 

Duffel Bag locks/keys (2)

 

• We can purchase these in Kathmandu. 

• You will want these to keep your gear safe while it is being stored in Base Camp.

 

 

Electronics (optional)

 

These are optional items that others have found useful.

 

International plug adapter kit.

• Voltage: 220-240 Volts (U.S./Canada are 110-120 Volts)

• Primary Socket Types: Indian, Europlug

• 110-120V electronics: Plug adapter + step-down transformer

 

 

I-pod

• Bring an extra battery and/or a solar charger

 

Digital Camera

• Some people bring two: a larger model with a good zoom for the approach, and a smaller one for on the mountain

• When climbing, your camera will need to be compact and fit in an inside pocket of your coat or it will be too cold to operate

• It should have a strap for your wrist and/or neck so you do not drop it on parties below you

• Lithium batteries last longer in cold weather, but even lithiums don’t last as long as they do in warmer climates at lower elevation

 

Digital Camera Batteries

• Because there is no electricity at base camp, you will want to have a stash of extra camera batteries that suits your hunger for photography

• With my compact Panasonic Lumix, I found four (4) lithium batteries to be sufficient for the entirety of my time away from outlets

 

Extra Camera Memory Card

• You can buy this in Kathmandu for about the same as you get for it in the States.  Don’t buy non-name-brand.  These are cheap knock-offs that will malfunction quickly.

 

Thumb Drive/USB stick

• A high capacity USB stick will allow you to trade photos with your friends at the internet shop after the expedition has finished. 

• You can also use the stick to print photos in Kathmandu for your local guides, porters, and cooks who would otherwise have no photos of their trip with you.

• The USB can serve as a back-up in the event that your camera’s memory card is corrupted (this happens often with the amount of deleting and re-shooting that takes place)

 

Solar Charger

• The solar charger can be used at base camp to recharge your camera, cam-corder, cell-phone, or laptop batteries.

• Cell-phone chargers can be fairly small and cheap, while those used to charge lap-tops tend to be large and pricey

• If you bring extra batteries for your device(s), it is often cheaper and less weight

• Brunton Solar Roll is a good example

 

Laptop Computer

• A laptop may serve you well in Kathmandu, but we do not recommend that you bring one on the trek to basecamp due to the effects of temperature extremes on hard drives and the possibility of damage during transport.

• Most hotels in Kathmandu and several tea-houses along our approach provide wireless internet for a charge.  Service is usually slow.

• If you decide to bring your laptop to Base Camp, it will need to be protected in some way from extreme temperatures to prevent damage to the hard drive. 

 

Light socket plug adaptor

• An adaptor that turns a light socket into a plug is advantageous for giving you the ability to charge your camera batteries in your room at teahouses during the approach and return from AmaDablam.

• Often there are only a few outlets in the teahouses we stay at, and these are crowded with the chargers of other guests.

• If you don’t find one in the States, you can purchase an adaptor in Nepal for about 80 cents.  These are prone to failure, so it might be prudent to buy two (they’re small).

 

Snacks (Recommended.  Bring 2 lbs per week of your trip)

 

These might seem like an arbitrary addition, but due to the effects of high altitude, exertion, a new diet, and intestinal illness, these can be a saving grace.  When selecting foods, keep this in mind:  You will be somewhat dehydrated, and at altitude your body has difficulty digesting fat and fiber.  Citrus tasting, salty, and sweet foods are high on the list of cravings- as are crunchy foods for reasons we haven’t quite figured out.

 

Plastic Bags

• Please repackage your snacks in bags that are unlikely to result in spilled food during transport on pack animals.

 

Sports drink powders

• Enough for 10 liters

• Isotonic beverage containing electrolytes and sugars

• Now is not the time to cut the sugar out of your drink.  You’ll need it.  Often it’s the only thing your body can digest at high altitude.

• Poweraid powder, Gaiteraid powder

 

Protein

• Getting enough digestible protein into you is tough.  Even tougher for vegetarians. It’s helpful if you are able to eat eggs and dairy products.  The diet of the Sherpa people is built upon the backbone of eggs and dairy, and you will even find butter in their tea.

• For non-vegetarians, beef jerky is a good source of protein

• Eggs, cheese, and other dairy will be in daily meals if requested

• For vegans, lentils are in no short supply.  But other sources of vegetable protein are scarce.  You will want to bring your own stash if you have a favorite (nut butters for instance).

• Peanut, almond, cashew, sunflower seed butters

• Protein powder mixes

 

Energy Bars (20)

• Choose a bar that you think you could eat while you are on mile fifteen of a marathon.  Bars that are oily or fibrous tend to be difficult for the body to handle at altitude.

 

We will provide all meals.  However, we don’t have all your favorite foods on hand.  To help you get the nutrition you crave, we suggest you bring some of your favorites with you.  Foods not available in Kathmandu that past expedition members have craved:

• Rice-noodle based stir-fry and soup dishes- like Taste of Thai.

• Salted Nuts

• Tamari almonds

• Beef Jerky

• Whole-wheat pretzels

• Sour patch kids

• Gummy bears

• Black licorice

• Unsulfated dried figs, peaches, pears, apricots, mangos

• Chocolate covered expresso beans

• Bagel chips

• Dehydrated vegetables

• Vegetable chips

• Home-made cookies

• Home-made granoloa bars

• Organic soup mix/miso soup

• Baked pita chips

• Dried Edemame

• Cake mix in a box

• Brownie mix in a box

• Jello cheese cake mix

• Muesli cereal

• Sundried tomatoes

• Pine nuts

• Cous cous

• Quinoa

 

Foods available in Kathmandu (we will have time to purchase these at a store before we leave):

 

• Dark and milk chocolate bars

• Candy bars

• Pringles chips

• Flavored crackers (salty crackers are usually craved more than sweet varieties)

• Cookies/sweet crackers

• Bread (white bread is good to have for those with digestive problems)

• Trail mix with dried fruit and coconut

• Hot chocolate

• Tea/coffee

• Flavored Juice drinks

• Glucose drink powder

• Dried fruit

• Nuts

• Trail mix

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